Frumenty and Fluffin, Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

High Dales Hike: Day 3 Horton-in Ribblesdale to Ingleton

February 15, 2015 · 16 comments

Date walked: 14th September 2014

Distance: about 8 miles

Map used: OS Explorer OL2 “Yorkshire Dales – Southern and Western areas.


Following yesterday’s entertainment, I didn’t have the best of nights (it was rubbish actually), making several more trips to the loo. At around 4am I took the two Lopermadide tablets that I had in my portable pharmacy; it was a Sunday so there was no chance of stocking up in Horton.

In the characterless refectory I decided upon a cautious breakfast of poached eggs on toast and black coffee, earwigging the meanwhile, to the fascinating conversation of a bunch of Geordies who had completed the Three Peaks Challenge yesterday and had drunk a lot last night.

Horton is a pleasant village on the River Ribble. It also has a station on the Settle to Carlisle railway line.  I crossed the line without needing to make a detour to its toilet and headed up on a path described on the map as Sulber Nick. This is clearly the route that the Three Peaks challengers take as it had a lot of discarded water bottles and chocolate bar wrappers (shame on them). And some nice cattle.

Cattle in Sulber Nick, photographed by Charles Hawes

Nice but not as nice as Aubracs

Looking back, there was a good view even on this cloudy day, back to Pen-y-Ghent.

View to Pen-Y-Ghent from Sulber Nick, photographed by Charles Hawes

I’ll save that climb for Bob

Looking ahead, I could make out the profile of Ingleborough, – the second highest of the three peaks. Feeling a bit knackered as I was it seemed reassuringly near.

View to Ingleborough from near Nick Pot, photographed by Charles Hawes

A nice steady climb

A  lichen-covered finger-post marked a crossroads between the Pennine Bridleway and the path heading for Ingleborough.

Finger-post on the Pennine Bridleway near Ingleborough, photographed by Charles Hawes

Yes, that is a pork pie

Here and there, the underlying limestone had broken though the thin soils.

Limestone on the Dales High Way near Ingleborough, photographed by Charles Hawes

At Nick Pot (not that I saw the Pot as such) my path joined The Dales High Way but no sign marked this reunion.  Other than  the discarded detritus of the walkers, runners and bicyclists, the only sign of human activity was the path itself and a ruined farmstead.

Ruined farmstead on the Dales High Way near Ingleborough, photographed by Charles Hawes

A Very Picturesque Landscape

And sheep, of course.

Sheep on the Dales High Way near Ingleborough, photographed by Charles Hawes

Clearly the breed of choice in the region

The approach to Ingleborough was made on a comfortably wide gritty path, the gentle gradient well suited to my slightly fragile constitution.

The Dales High Way to Ingleborough, photographed by Charles Hawes

I bet the bicyclists love this bit

For the little it said, I think the National Park authority might not have touristified the place by attaching an explanatory board to an otherwise natural pile of large blocks of stone.

Explanatory board on the approach to Ingelborough, photographed from The Dales High Way by Charles Hawes

Better without?

As the climb became a bit steeper the path became more worn.

Approaching the top of Ingleborough from The Dales High Way, photographed by Charles Hawes

A passing couple volunteered what all walkers know; it’s the coming down that’s the harder on the legs. The last bit of the going up was really quite easy. It was busy though, with walkers in both directions.

View to the Dales High Way heading north off Ingleborough, photographed by Charles Hawes

That’s the route of the Dales High Way

Below me and to the right  several people were following the  Dales High Way north. Bob had booked me into Ingleton, though, which takes the route shown on the map as A Pennine Journey.

Ingleborough summit, photographed by Charles Hawes

This one taken on my phone – its a bit rubbish

The top of Ingleborough is quite flat, its trig point (at 2,372 feet)  looking rather incidental in this wide space (and not as high as the highest point of a nearby shelter made for walkers to have their lunch.) The views were best on the furthest side, though still rather misty. A couple assured me from their experience today was one of the better ones.

View to Whernside from Ingleborough, photographed by Charles Hawes

I believe that that is Whernside in the distance

As descents go, coming off the hill was relatively painless and made a lot easier by the series of solid steps that had been made for our benefit.

A Pennine Journey heading from Ingleborough to Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

It’s all downhill now

The view back to the edge of the hill revealed its solid limestone geology.

The western face of Inglebough, photographed by Charles Hawes

As the steps gave way to a steep but grassy path, a guy approached carrying his bicycle. This struck me as a somewhat unnecessary burden considering how little he would be able to use it in the near future.

Bicyclist doing the Three Paeks Challenge approaching Ingleborough, photographed by Charles Hawes

I bet his thighs are impressive

He explained that he was practising for the Three Peaks Challenge in a weeks time when fellow madmen would carry their bicycles over the Three Peaks of Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-Ghent in one day (and ride them in between) .  Whatever turns you on.

On the way off the hill I passed just one farm, shown on the map as Crina Bottom.

Crina Bottom, Ingleborough, photographed by Charles Hawes

I don’t suppose you get many calm days up here

Above it a modestly sized black wind turbine  was making a swishing noise in the stiff breeze as it trickled electricity down the hill.

From here the path follows a car-width track down to the B6255.

Fell Lane leading to Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

As I approached the village I launched the Maps app on my iPhone and searched for Seed Hill Guest House. The built-in GPS found me and it and the little blue blob on the screen guided me to the place. I love this app!

Seed Hill Guest House, Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

A cheerful way in

In the front of the C17th cottage the owner has small nursery. I couldn’t have been happier with my accommodation. My bags were waiting and the friendly owner, Adrian,  showed me up the stairs to a little landing with a low doorway opposite the stairs. “This is my favourite room” he said. And I could see why. The bathroom to the left of the entrance was painted dark, dark green and had a massive roll topped bath and a tiny cast iron fireplace. To the right a narrow corridor had a little table and comfy chair and pretty wallpaper that extended to the most inviting bed.

Bedroom in Seed Hill Guest House, photographed by Charles Hawes


It was only around 1.30pm and I had managed the walk without any problems down below (see yesterdays post), so  after a super bath I thought that I deserved lunch. Ingleton is a nice little village with several cafes and I had a look at them all before settling on the wonderfully named Frumenty and Fluffin.  I sat outside and had a very sensible pot of tea and a sandwich. Then I went inside and bought an enormous piece of chocolate cake to have later.

Ingleton  also has a super sweet shop.

Swweties from Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

Prezzie for Anne

Time for a snooze.

I liked my room so much that instead of eating out that night I bought bread, cheese and tomatoes and a couple of mini bottles of wine (and more anti-run pills) from the Coop and had a picnic watching telly. Then I had the cake. A perfect evening.

My bags were being transferred each day by the excellent Brigantes walking holidays.

{ 16 comments… read them below or add one }

Anne Wareham February 15, 2015 at 10:13 am

Did I ever get the droppings?


Charles February 15, 2015 at 3:43 pm

You did. They were snaffled up in no time.


Paul Steer February 15, 2015 at 4:03 pm

I like the look of that b+b – not sure of the half naked man!


Charles February 16, 2015 at 5:21 pm

It was a fab place. The man follows me everywhere; he seems harmless. On a good day.


John February 15, 2015 at 6:34 pm

There is something about a grey sky that makes things atmospheric and I wonder why I don’t venture out with the camera on dull days. At least that “notice” was camouflaged by the rocks a bit rather than being stuck on a metre high pole so be grateful for small mercies. I’m assuming that the caption on the penultimate pic is a comment on the room, not the reflection! And we know you ate the raisins and what Anne got was the result of a bit of surreptitious collecting and a co-operative B&B owner who melted some chocolate for you. (IIRC the shop at the NBGW sells sheep poo paper. The sheep of Carmarthenshire must be very intelligent to wipe their back-ends after pooping!)


Charles February 16, 2015 at 5:25 pm

Well, there’s interesting grey and dull grey. I’d stay indoors on the dull days, of which we seem to have had a lot this winter.
Hardly camouflaged! Nope, could do without it. Should do without it…..
I’m sure someone must love chocolate coated sheep droppings but Anne isn’t one of them.
The NBGW caters to a wide range of those with taste… and without it.


David Marsden February 15, 2015 at 7:44 pm

Phew. You finally got a decent B&B – I can rest easy. I rather like B&B picnics, when nothing else but a decent film and some (non-smelly) takeaway is that’s needed. I’ve made a note of ‘touristified’ – thanks. D


Charles February 16, 2015 at 5:28 pm

Yes, it’s gone into my top ten list of places to stay. Mind you, my last night was fabulous. Nowhere nasty to come, though. Your’e welcome to “touristified”. Use it or lose it.


Julia February 17, 2015 at 9:41 am

good fun – but i’m not persuaded to try – prefer the warmth of france but it’s being bloody freezing just now. keep walking.


Charles February 19, 2015 at 12:03 pm

Well I’ve heard of fair weather walkers but shunning Yorkshire for France takes this to extremes. I’ll keep walking. Some nice walks from Canterbury coming up.


rob grover February 19, 2015 at 7:40 pm

I liked the pork pie, but it must have been pretty rank for even the crows to ignore it.
But no detritus pictures – what happened to your warts and all approach? Lots of detritus, which I’m not going to show you?


Charles February 19, 2015 at 7:42 pm

Well i picked it up and thought about it. Then put it back. You want crap, I’ll give you crap.


John February 19, 2015 at 9:39 pm

Make your mind up, Charles. You said you didn’t take a photo of the crap! Not even of your little “cairn”. (Also wanted to point out subliminally that I read your blog on an ongoing basis, not just once on Sundays.)


Charles February 19, 2015 at 10:14 pm

I was referring to future crap! And may even offer this exclusively to Rob since he seems to want it.


rob grover February 20, 2015 at 7:58 am

Photogenic flotsam and jetsam, for general appreciation, will be quite sufficient, thank you


Charles February 20, 2015 at 5:43 pm

Some people are just picky.


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