Post image for High Dales Hike Day 4: Ingleton to Dent

High Dales Hike Day 4: Ingleton to Dent

February 22, 2015 · 17 comments

Date walked: 15th September 2014

Distance: 13.5 miles

Map used: OS Explorer OL2 “Yorkshire Dales – Southern and Western areas”.

A High Dales Way Companion by Tony and Chris Grogan

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I had stayed the night in the excellent Seed Hill Guest House in the most comfortable of rooms. Most unusually  a “low fat” cooked breakfast was on offer, where the bacon was grilled and the eggs poached. Which is just how I like it, and very good it was too.

There were three of us men in this small dining room with seemingly not a word to say to one another. This struck me as a most awful indictment of our gender. I tried an exchange with the chap nearest to me but we managed no more than two sentences each about the weather. There was probably 180 years of life experience in the room. Dreadful. I should have tried harder.

Bob’s intended itinerary was to climb up Whernside from the south and to make the long ridge walk to its summit, before dropping down to Dent. A good plan, but it was another cloudy day and I wondered about whether I would see much for my efforts.

The railway line that once used the viaduct that dominates the village has a fascinating history; it is said to have been the shortest railway service in history!

Ingelton viaduct, photographed by Charles Hawes

This is a great part of the world for viaducts

Taking a road down to the lower part of the village and after crossing the river, I turned right up  Oddies Lane.

River Doe at Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

According to my map this is the River Doe, which is joined immediatly before the viaduct by the River Twiss and it then becomes the River Greta!

Over to the right were some sheep of an unfamiliar appearance – time, I think, to get to know more about these most prevalent of pasture dwellers.

Sheep near Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

By the time you read this I’ll have my “Know your Sheep ” book

Towards the top of the lane, just by the side of the road,  a chap with a car and a tent was packing up; a strange spot, I thought, to have chosen for the night. Over to the left, a farm called Scar End sits at the foot of Whernside, the footpath taking a route up though a small wood.

Scar End farm, near Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

There’s mist on them there hills

On the right a quarry, still in use despite the map’s indication to the contrary.

Hanson Quarry, Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

It has permission to quarry again to 2018

The sky was still pretty cloudy so I made the decision to keep on this Roman Road for the next three miles to Chapel-Le-Dale.

The architecture of the house of Beezleys Farm  looked like it would contain an interesting interior but the place was really shabby outside.

Breezey Farm near Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

And those curtains could do with a wash

The farmer had thoughtfully left some old vehicles in the nearby fields to add Picturesque interest to this otherwise far too attractive landscape.

Tractor in field near Beezleys Farm, photographed by Charles Hawes

The Picturesque aesthetic was made for farmers

Over to the left, and running perfectly parallel to the road were the Twistleton Scars, their limestone face being favoured by rock climbers (but not today).

Twistleton Scar, near Ingleton, photographed by Charles Hawes

Nicely illuminated by a brief shaft of sunlight

Over to the right, but out of sight, the River Doe ( and hidden by walls the B6255) runs through this most perfect of Dales valleys.

Valley of the River Doe, Yorkshire Dales, photographed by Charles Hawes

Well placed tree, don’t you think?

Not a single car passed me until I got to the church at Chapel-le-Dale, where a bloke parked his car in the lane, dashed into the church and came straight out again, ignoring my greeting.Very odd. Rude even.

St Leonards Church, Chapel-le-dale, photographed from The Dales High Way by Charles Hawes

That bell “tower” looks like an afterthought to me

 I popped into St Leonards church which was as simple on the inside as it was from the outside. Grogan’s Guide says that there are graves for 200 people who worked on the construction of the Settle to Carlisle Railway bwetween 1870 and 1877 and who died through accident or disease.

Ingletonto Dent-15

At Chapel-le-Dale I was re-united with the Dales High Way which then follows a track out of the hamlet and climbs up towards Whernside’s lower eastern flank.

The Dales High Way at Chapel-Le-Dale, photographed by Charles Hawes

Hidden by the trees was a deep Shake Hole called Hurtle Pot and on the left of the track was a piece of dodgy sculpture by Charles L’Anson that had been chucked into this hole in 1983 and had subsequently been found in 30 feet of water.

Sculpture by Charles l'Anson by the High Dales Way near Chapel-le-Dale, photographed by Charles Hawes

I think I may have left it in the pot

At the top of the lane, Whernside’s highest point was still shrouded by cloud, reinforcing my decision to opt for this low level walk.

View to Whernside from The Dales High Way at Ellerbeck, photographed by Charles Hawes

I was surprised to see that the Dales High Way route also shuns Whernside and follows instead this very pleasant track that  runs along the valley bottom for the next couple of miles. Looking back, those climbing Ingleborough that day would have been even worse off.

View to Ingleborough, photographed from The Dales High Way near Bruntscar by Charles Hawes

Ok, so I have exagerated the dark sky for effect

As I ambled along, I gained further advantage for my lack of adventurousness through being given the most splendid view of the Ribblehead Viaduct.

Ribblehead Viaduct, photographed from the Dales High Way by Charles Hawes

As I got nearer so my view of it improved, though I was irritated by a track that climbs the hill behind it and cuts across the its perfect line.

View to the Ribblehead viaduct from The dales High Way, photographed by Charles Hawes

Some might have eliminated that white wiggle in Photoshop

In the end I was able to get one shot that satisfied my non-Picturesque preference for perfection in form.

The Ribblehead Viaduct, photographed from The Dales High Way by Charles Hawes

Though this might be more perfect without the sheep

The path passes under the railway and then runs alongside it for a mile, passing by Bleamoor Sidings.

Bleamoor Sidings, photographed from The High Dales Way by Charles Hawes

Despite the railway, this felt a wonderfully remote place; the wide grit track seemed intrusive somehow, artificial and out of proportion.

(We travelled this line from Bingley to Carlisle and back one day with Anne’s Father – a  great way to see the countryside and a  journey that can be made on a steam train if you choose your day right)

The Dales High Way near Bleamoor Sidings, photographed by Charles Hawes

As the path crosses back over the the railway line, the Force Gill Beck is channelled over a small aqueduct with the most beautiful stonework.

Aqueduct containing Force Gill photographed from The Dales High way by Charles Hawes

 Just after this point the railway passes underground through the mile-and-a-half long Bleamoor Tunnel.

The Settle to Carlisle Railway, photographed from The Dales High Way by Charles Hawes

A series of spoil heaps and ventilation shafts marks the tunnel’s progress under the moor

Still climbing, I was joined by a group of a girl and three guys in their 30’s. Their pace was only slightly faster than mine and we had a chat. They were doing the Three Peaks that day not for itself but as an endurance practice for the ascent of Kilimanjaro (just short of 20,000 feet)  that they were doing in 2 weeks time. I didn’t hold up the chances for their fourth friend who was struggling. Perhaps he’s better at altitude.

The Dales High Way near Whernside, photographed by Charles Hawes

His mates had a rest while this chap caught up

According to the Grogans this route from Chapel-le-Dale to Dent is an ancient packhorse route. This moorland is now shooting territory and a large sign announced that shooting was in progress (it wasn’t). Several wooden pitches (probably the wrong word) mark where the guns would stand, little white sticks limiting their inclination to track the birds too far to left or right.

Shooting point on Craven Wold, photographed from The Dales High Way by Charles Hawes

“Emplacement”?

Whernside’s summit was clear now and over to the right were fine views over Dentdale to the surrounding moors.

Ingletonto Dent-38

Craven Wold becomes Craven Way (on the map) and passes though some stone-built sheep pens….

Sheep pens on the Cravan Way near Dent, photographed from The Dales High Way by Charles Hawes

…. before widening out briefly to a wide grassy highway, the lush tree-studded valley of Dentdale now just a couple of miles away.

Cravan Way as it descneds to Dent, photographed from The Dales High Way by Charles Hawes

The Cravan (high) Way

The descent to the valley, though stony, was easy enough.

View to Dentdale from the Dales High Way, photographed by Charles Hawes

With gravity’s assistance I was soon crossing a little lane where The Dales Way (where I had walked last year) joins the Dales High Way and follows the banks of Deepdale Beck.

Finger-post near Dent, photographed by Charles Hawes

It’s a popular place for walkers

Someone had pulled the plug on the beck, though, its bed was completely exposed.

Deepdale Beck, photographed from the Dales Way by Charles Hawes

Has it been that dry up here?

It was not until its confluence with the River Dee that there was any flow of water to be seen.

Dent is an utterly charming place. It was certainly one of the nicest that we passed through when we walked the Dales Way the year before. It could not sit more comfortably in the landscape. With several pubs and cafes it would make a great base to get better aquainted with this idyllic countryside.

Dent, viewed from The Dales Way, photographed by Charles Hawes

See what I mean?

 I was booked into the George and Dragon which was in the main street opposite the Sedgewick Memorial. My bags were waiting for me and I had earned a snooze. What a smashing day.

 My bags were being transferred each day by the excellent Brigantes walking holidays.

{ 17 comments… read them below or add one }

Anne Wareham February 22, 2015 at 10:02 am

You missed out the famous Terrible Knitters of Dent (to add another random and archaic capital..) – see http://museumsintheyorkshiredales.co.uk/dent-knitters.html. But beautiful pic of Dent. I also seem to remember that if you got a train to Dent you found yourself with a five mile walk to the village. I think.

Xxxx

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Charles February 22, 2015 at 5:59 pm

I was aware of the Terrible Knitters but I couldn’t photograph them on account of them being dead.

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Paul Steer February 22, 2015 at 12:19 pm

Beautiful photography. The simple altar in the church is profound – shame it wasn’t matched by the hurried man – but then I have been him too. Dent does sit well in its landscape. Perhaps if you had asked for your fellow breakfast eaters social media contacts you could have spoken to each other on Twitter or Facebook ?

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Charles February 22, 2015 at 5:58 pm

Thank you, oh little one. We are due for a walk. Yes, liked those simple lines in the church. Haha, yes, should have tried a social media introduction.

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Valerie February 22, 2015 at 5:27 pm

Have you got a new camera? Or is it just the lighting and the weather that make this set more than normally so pleasing.

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Charles February 22, 2015 at 5:56 pm

Hiya . No, been snapping with the Canon G15 for some time. May vary how much I do in Lightroom!

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David Marsden February 23, 2015 at 7:41 pm

A smashing day indeed, Charles. That section above the Bleamoor Tunnel is where I got lost taking a ‘short’ cut across to the Dales Way from the Ribblehead viaduct. It all looks very different from when I did it in February! Excellent photos of the viaduct – but yes, you ought to have shooed away the sheep first. Make a note to do so next time, would you? Dent is lovely, I wish I’d over-nighted there. Dave

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Charles February 24, 2015 at 7:50 pm

Thanks Dave. In the right weather I could have got lost I’m sure though the path itself was as clear as could be. I did once shoo away a load of ducks off a pond when I was photographing the gardens at Erdigg, only to find when I got back to the tripod that the gardeners had plonked their wheel barrows in my view. The moral being, of course, don’t count your sheep.

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rob grover February 23, 2015 at 8:13 pm

Agree with you Valerie, the lighting is really striking in many of the views.
And is the walker struggling, only to provide that classic splash of foreground crimson?

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Charles February 24, 2015 at 7:53 pm

Well I am delighted to have provided such interest for the light-interested amongst you. Crimson foreground interest? I’ll have to have another look. Maybe I should carry a red filter? Or a can of paint.

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James Golden February 23, 2015 at 10:43 pm

Since I’m planning a trip to the UK, I’m paying attention. Beautiful landscape.

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Charles February 24, 2015 at 7:46 pm

Well it’s very nice of you to drop by James, but I am not going to show you any gardens to visit on this trek.

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Julia February 26, 2015 at 5:41 pm

nice little trot – good landmarks and a feeling of green warmth – whatever that might mean – but seems less harsh than the coastal walk. old farm mchinery – love it.

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Colin Russell March 1, 2015 at 10:14 am

Wonderful – one of my favourites of your Blogs!

Regards from Germany,

Colin

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Charles March 1, 2015 at 11:40 am

Thanks (assuming that you are not a brief spam!). Do call again.

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Jonathan March 8, 2015 at 8:00 am

I’m really enjoying catching up with your walk. Your photos have a nice combination of sweeping landscapes and more intimate details, picture-perfect shots and the shots you took before/after you got those photos (e.g. the ones with the white line of track above the viaduct). A great bit of armchair travelling!

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Charles March 8, 2015 at 12:49 pm

Thanks Jonathan. Do drop by again.

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