Post image for Wales Coast Path (Anglesey): Trearddur Bay to Rhosneigr

Wales Coast Path (Anglesey): Trearddur Bay to Rhosneigr

December 7, 2014 · 15 comments

Date walked: 29th July 2014

Distance: about 15 miles

Map used: OS Explorer No.262: Anglesey West

At the start of these walks on Anglesey I flew from Cardiff to Anglesey Airport near Holyhead on the excellent Citywing service. 

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I  had a good nights sleep at Ingledene Bed and breakfast in Trearddur Bay. It was novel having my breakfast delivered on a trolley, even if there was no sign of fruit. For once the breakfast room was blessedly quiet – no cheery morning music.

Sadly the weather had broken down and it was drizzling that heavy, wetting drizzle.

At the beach, the wet weather wasn’t putting off  the novice sailors.

Sailing class at Trearddur Bay, Anglesey, photographed from the Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

If you are going to get wet anyway you might as well go sailing

The coast path out of  the village follows the road at first before passing through the Lee Caravan Park. According to the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty website: “Tourism plays a significant part in the rural economy, largely centred on static caravan sites.” You could say that for the whole of the Welsh coast.

Lee Park Caravan site, Anglesey, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Very natural? Very beautiful?

 Having got through the caravans the AONB ethos is re-asserted.

Sign near Lee Caravan Park, Anglesey, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Elsewhere you can disturb the animals to your heart’s content

Yesterday’s  coast of low rocky cliffs and coves continued, adding some impressive natural arches.

natural arch on Anglesey Coast photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

I rather lost track of what this one is called. Sorry

Man made, but also impressive were the lichen covered and expertly constructed walls.

Wall on Rhoscolyn, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

I’d be very proud if I had raised these

As my attention returned to the cliffs I was amazed to see, half way down a near-sheer drop, two white goats perched calmly on a narrow ledge, sheltering from the rain.

Goats sitting on cliff on Rhoscolyn, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

You really can’t appreciate how steep that cliff is.

For once I got out my binoculars for a closer look.

See, definitely goats. We, ike goats. (hehe)

See, definitely goats. We, like goats, ….. (he he)

Several more coves…

Treaddur_Bay_to Rhosneigr_-13

…and several more beautiful walls….

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…….took me to the southern most part of Holy Island.

The rain was easing off by now and out to sea Rhoscolyn Beacon was visible though the misty atmosphere.

Treaddur_Bay_to Rhosneigr_-16

Rhoscolyn is said to mean “The Moor” (Rhos) of The Column (colyn), referring to a pillar which the Romans put up to mark the edge of their territories. To the south of the village the path reaches the sheltered cove of Borthwen.

Borthwen near Rhoscolyn, photographed from The Wales Coast path by Charles Hawes

You wouldn’t want your wits end to be public would you?

The Old Lifeboat station has been converted to a residence.

The Old Lifeboat Station, Borthwen, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Though from here it reminded me of a public convinience

From Borthwen the path heads due north; the only crossing from Holy Island to Anglesey’s main island (which appears to be nameless) is two miles away at Four Mile Bridge. Half of this was on the road but the best bit was where the path reaches the edge of the marshy land.

Marshland near Four Mile Bridge, Anglesey, photographed from The wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

A wonderful tapestry of natural vegetation

Four-mile bridge’s architecture is not exactly enhanced by the service pipes strapped to its side.

Four Mile Bridge, Anglesey, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Mind you, I quite liked this pic for some reason

Having crossed Four Mile Bridge the path returns to the marshes and heads south.  The high tides deposit all sorts of interesting things.

The Wales Coast path on Anglesey, photographed by Charles Hawes

Here a colourful tangle of rope.

The Wales Coast path on Anglesey, photographed by Charles Hawes

Here the a sludge almost entirely made up of tiny crab shells.

The path crosses a narrow sea wall holding back a lake at Tyddyn-y-cob; below a heron stood completely still in the shallow water. I tried to gain his attention (don’t ask me why)  then he lunged, came up with a flapping spotted flat fish and flew off.

Heron near Four Mile Bridge, Anglesey, photgraphed from the Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

I was very annoyed that I missed the catch

The path continues to follow  the marshy high tide line of  this shallow stretch of water that separates the islands. It was a particularly quiet and peaceful area; I stopped for a cup of coffee from my flask.  A woman with a broad Liverpool accent, not obviously a walker, marched by at a fair lick, asking me if this was the Coast Path.

Just after this I passed a sheep with its head stuck through the stock fence. It seemed a very large head to have got through a relatively small square of wire, but I had seen this before and seen the sheep extract themselves.

Is it me or does it look like she wants me to help her?

Is it me or does it look like she wants me to help her?

This one was struggling. I went towards it and it struggled more.  It is normally the case that passers-by can do nothing useful for distressed farm animals; they are people-shy and locating the farmer is usually impossible. So I walked by, saying to myself that it would have to wait for rescue. But I found that I was unhappy with leaving it, so I went back and was about to see what I could do when my proximity sent it into a renewed frenzy of struggling and it managed to pull its head back through the fence and carried on grazing as if nothing had happened.

Somewhere around here the coast loses its AONB status. The reason is quite simple; just over the horizon is the RAF Valley/Anglesey Airport that I flew into yesterday.  The clue was in the air.

Fighter plane from RAF Valley, photographed from The Wales Coast Path on Anglesey by Charles Hawes

Even at some height these things can be pretty loud

As I approached the airport perimeter a military plane took off, flying low over my head. It was deafening.  Several cars were parked at what was the end of a minor road, their  occupants standing around waiting for the next plane.

Spectators at RAF Valley on Anglesey, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

I think I would have brought ear-defenders

I asked one young spectator what he had seen:

“A few training jets”

“What type”

“T45 Goshawks”.

I suppose it must be a bit like train spotting if you live near an airport

A little of getting deafened by jets goes a long way so, after a brief linger I carried on down the track that takes the seaward side of the airport.

Sign near RAF Valley on Anglesey, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

I wonder what the difference is between a “Linger” and a “Loiter”

Crossing a car park at Plas Cymyran the path reaches the mixed sand and pebble  mile and half  long beach that goes all the way to Rhosneigr.

Beach near Rhosneigr photographed from The wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Stone skimming: I used to be very good at this

Across the bay, the hills of the Lleyn peninsula that I walked over in June were clothed in white puffy clouds. As I walked along the beach an adult rushed by who was clearly running away from a bare foot woman in hot pursuit. There was something about the awkward way he ran and then made a shriek that led me to conclude that this man had learning disabilities and that the woman was a carer.

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They were moving faster than me. At one point the woman caught up and seemed to hold him briefly but he broke away and carried on towards Rhosneigr.  Then they went out of sight and I didn’t see them again. I hoped that Rhosneigr was where he  was staying because it was a long way back if it wasn’t.

The weather had improved since the morning but half a mile from the town the beach was still pretty quiet.

View to Lleyn peninsula from the Wales Coast Path nar rhosneigr, photographed by Charles Hawes

Yes, I played around with the sky for this pic

Lleyn peninsula photographed from the Anglesey Coast path near Rhosneigr by Charles Hawes

And I really went to town on everything for this one

But as I neared the town a few more adventurous types were beach combing.

View to Rhosneigr from The Wales Coast path, photographed by Charles Hawes

And someone had managed to install a caravan on the beach (and were inside it).

Caravan on the beach at Rhosneigr, Anglesey, photographed from the Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Quite an achievement to get it there and not to have had it removed.

As I got close to the town I could see that there was a wide stream about 6 inches deep between me and the front. The official route would have required a little detour inland for a footbridge but I dashed  across and got my feet wet. Which was silly really as it takes a while to dry out wet boots.

I was staying that night at Ambleside Bed and Breakfast which was in the main street in the town. I had booked a single room which was OK if a little cramped but when I realised after unpacking that I was the only guest I asked the very friendly landlady if I could have the en suite double instead, assuring her that I would pay the extra. She was quite Ok about that and I was instantly much happier.  Sometimes its the little things in life that matter.

{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }

Anne Wareham December 7, 2014 at 10:39 am

southern most = one word?

Hmm – linger/loiter…love the English language!

How much breakfast were you having that it required a trolley to deliver it??

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Charles December 7, 2014 at 11:32 am

I refer you to my honourably friend, John.

A trolley load.
xx

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Anne Wareham December 7, 2014 at 11:35 am

John is the pot which is not embarrassed to call the kettle black…

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John December 7, 2014 at 10:50 am

Stop picking Anne 😉

I love the pics of the walls and of the cliff with goats on – the textures and colours come over very well.

Anglesey’s main island does, in fact, have a name. It’s “Anglesey” (or “Ynys Mon”). It, together with the little islands around it such as Holy Island, make up the administrative county of Anglesey, which, of course, is more than just Anglesey and is in the preserved county of Gwynedd, to add to the confusion.

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Charles December 7, 2014 at 11:34 am

Thanks, as always. So Ynys Mon is the main island, thanks, that clears that up. Though Holy Island is hardly small compared to the main island. How many little islands are there off the two main ones?

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John December 7, 2014 at 12:22 pm

In addition to Holy Island there’s Ynys Llanddwyn (which becomes detached when the tide is very high), Cribinau (reachable at low tide and essentially a church and a graveyard), Ynys Dysilio (another church and graveyard island), the Skerries (I suppose these are islets), South Stack, East Mouse, West Mouse and Middle Mouse (more islets), Puffin Island, Salt Island, Ynys Faelog, Ynys Feurig, Ynys Gaint, Ynys Moelfre, Ynys y Big (private and you can’t get off the causeway at the island end unless you’ve been invited) and Ynys Gored Goch.

Howzat? Please give the Kettle my greetings.

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Charles December 8, 2014 at 8:13 pm

Thanks for all your researches! I think I’ve past half of these now. If I start greeting Kettles I’ll get locked up. I could get away with a smile.

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rob grover December 7, 2014 at 7:00 pm

I actually rather liked the disorganised caravans; they couldn’t quite get their act together and they are still grumbling among themselves.
And I’m not at all sure about your two goats. They are too clean, too well placed and too well juxtaposed. I think they could well be conceptual art.
An aside; is there anyway of incorporating a map section to show where your walk is, or do you come up against copyright issues?

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Charles December 8, 2014 at 8:11 pm

Humph. I think it comes to something when caravan parks are admired for their disorganised layout. Goats are very clean animals, don’t you know. You are sounding quite bonkers. Don’t talk to me about maps. I’d love to but I have wasted hours trying to get maps into my site without success. When I am retired I might try again.

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Paul Steer December 9, 2014 at 5:01 pm

I like the over fiddled with photo – the parallel lines and the enhanced sky. I think artiness is sinking into your soul.

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Jeremy Moore December 14, 2014 at 10:58 am

I suspect that the caravan on Rhosneigr beach is used by the warden of the tern colony on the nearby island/peninsula (Ynys Feirig) I photographed it but the image didn’t appear in the book.

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Charles December 14, 2014 at 11:33 am

Hi Jeremy
Really! What a grossly insensitive place to plonk a caravan. What were they thinking?

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Jeremy Moore December 14, 2014 at 2:50 pm

I wonder if they remove it outside the breeding season? One would hope/expect so. Can’t imagine it would endure too many winters.

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Cathy Marshall December 18, 2015 at 2:08 pm

Hello,
Really nice to read your story. I am the lady you mentioned from Ambleside Bed and Breakfast in Rhosneigr and I was so pleased to see that I made a nice ending to your Coastal Path walk.
Regards, Cathy

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Charles December 20, 2015 at 12:44 pm

Thanks for the comment. I hope that I might have encouraged some others to enjoy your place.

Reply

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