Date walked: April 2nd 2014

Distance walked: around 12 miles

Cumulative total of miles walked along The Wales Coast Path: 524

The official website of the Wales Coast path is http://www.walescoastpath.gov.uk/default.aspx

OS map required:  OL23 – Cadair Idris and Lyn Tegid and OL 18 – Harlech, Porthmadog & Bala

I get all my maps from Dash4it. They are well discounted, and delivery is free and fast.

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I had stayed the night at the excellent Prysgoed Bed and Breakfast in Llwyngwril and had had a good breakfast, the only disappointment being that the fresh fruit salad on the menu wasn’t available (I might have asked for it the night before). I eat such a lot of carbs on these trips.

It was overcast as I made my way up the main street, my eye being caught by the attractive window of a  converted chapel (window boxes are nearly always a mistake unless they are regularly gardened).

Window in Chapel wall in Llwyngrrill, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Love the window. Love the way the planter supports echo the window but that planting…

Just to the right of the Garthangharad Hotel the path takes a little lane that rises quite steeply for about half a mile. Steep enough for me to pause several times for breath (I always seem to find the first climb of the day pretty hard work) .

Stone walls on road out of Llwyngwril photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

I was reminded of the Yorkshire Dales for these few miles

Just off to right of the road were a series of large flat-topped cairns that appeared to have been unusually carefully constructed – fitting in with the impressive quality of the surrounding walls.

Carin above Llwyngwril, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Walkers cairns are not like this and there were several close together so what’s the story?

The heavy skies were obscuring any view I might have had to the Lleyn, but this edge-of-moor landscape, dotted with ruined farm buildings,  was engaging enough.

Ruined cottage at the edge of the moor above Llwyngwril, photographed from the Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

It must have been tough out here, though I suppose the village was only a couple of miles away.

As I climbed, so a view to Barmouth appeared, the  long spit from Fairbourne almost reaching its harbour. My map indicates that a passenger ferry makes this short crossing in the summer.

View to Barmouth from road above Llwyngwril, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Shame about the pylons but they have to go somewhere.

Two miles out of Llwyngwril the road enters a coniferous plantation that was being partly felled; the air filled with the invigorating scent of  resin.

Forestry operations above Fairbourne, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

I wonder where all this wood is destined for?

The “official” coast path descends from the wood to Fairbourne and then follows the estuary side to Morfa Mawddach railway station. It seemed a shame to lose the altitude to pass through what looked, from above at least, to be an unprepossessing modern village so I was pleased to find a sign diverting me to carry on through the wood for a more direct route.

 

Wales Coast Path diversion notice above Fairbourne, photographed by Charles Hawes

Just to prove that I wasn’t wilfully avoiding the longer way

This diversion is not shown on the current Wales Coast Path website maps and I am assured by Natural Resources Wales that the diversion no longer applies.

The metalled road becomes a farm track servicing a few exquisitely isolated cottages. This is called Cyfannedd-fawr. I am grateful to a super blog about the area by Iain Robinson for this snippet: “Here, in 1748, one Morus Jones had his home. He was a poet and winner of many bardic chairs.”

Cyfannedd-fawr photographed from The Wales Coast path by Charles Hawes

Cyfannedd-fawr: wonderful location.

I passed a sheep cleaning its new-born lamb which wobbled on its newly found feet.

Newly born lamb in field above Fairbourne, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

We, like sheep,…. (try singing it and you might get it, John)…especially new ones

As I descended the hillside the farm track became a wide grass path .

Track descending from Cyfannedd-fawr, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

If you read that blog I just referred to this might even be a track used by mining activity

Tucked away in a mini-valley is another cottage with no access for a car that I could see which  brought to mind a  familiar thought that it would be great to have such an isolated retreat. It is called Penygeulan Cottage and on the map is shown as Gest Ddu.

Isolated cottage near

I would so love to have had a little poke around inside

With no waymarking signs to guide me I may have lost my path briefly; either that or this diversion necessitates a steep scramble down a near-sheer drop. At the bottom a water treatment plant was undergoing work and a waymarked kissing gate suggested that I was back on track.

Kissing gate on The Wales Coast path above Tyddyn Sieffra photographed by Charles Hawes

It wouldn’t be me if I didn’t go off piste at least once a day

At the bottom of the hill the path crosses the A493 by the war Memorial and takes a little lane to the Morfa Mawddach station.

The Arthog War Memorial, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

This is the Arthog memorial

On the way a ramshackle yard offering all manner of edible produce looked more likely to be a supplier of  2nd hand lorry spares.

Farm produce outlet near Morfa Mawddach, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

As a farm produce outlet, this place could do with a makeover

At the  railway line the path then shares its route with the railway across the Barmoth Bridge, warning of a toll to be paid at the other end.

The Approach to Barmouth Bridge, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

This is a nice quiet walk- there was even a seat around the corner. I didn’t pass any trains but I am told the line is open now.

According to the Cicerone Ceredigion and Snowdonia Coast Paths Guide, Barmouth Bridge was opened in 1867 and is the longest bridge in Wales.  Which is not right. It is less than half a mile whereas the 2nd Severn Crossing is about 3.2 miles, and half of that must be in Wales. Not being next to a motorway and with no trains coming or going, the Barmouth bridge  is probably a much nicer walk.

The footpath at Barmouth Bridge: part of The Wales Coast Path, photographed by Charles Hawes

Watch out for some dodgy planks.

And the view up the estuary towards the Snowdonia hills was awesome even on a dull day.

View across Mawddach  photographed from Barmouth Bridge by Charles Hawes

Mawddach and the misty snowdonia foothills

Always pleased to get a bargain, the toll booth on the far side of the bridge was closed.

Toll Booth on the Barmouth Bridge, photographed by Charles Hawes

Yes!

Like Aberdovey, Barmouth is situated at the foot of a hillside, and the road into town from the bridge passes a deep quarry. The harbourside starts pleasantly; I was very taken by the zinc plated corrugated sides of the Sailors Institute Reading Room and its cordial invitation.

The Sailors Institute, Barmouth, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Note the apostrophe

I passed the Lifeboat Station, its boat ready to be tractored out to an emergency.

Lifeboat in Barmouth, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Am I being fanciful or does this not look like some creature in its lair?

And that was where Barmouth gave up the ghost.

There is something very sad about a closed ice-cream booth (it’s probably a childhood thing).

Ice cream booth at Barmouth, photographed from The Wales Coast path by Charles Hawes

No candyfloss for me, boo hoo.

Rupert Bear and his friends were barring the entrance to the amusement arcades; their expressions one of complete inscrutability.

Amusement arcade entrance in Barmouth, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

I’ve seen Dr Who monsters less menacing than these

The fairground lay dismantled in the near-empty car park.

Car park on the front at Barmouth, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

That’s the Cadair Idris massif behind I think

The promenade-side planting was probably conceived by whoever inspired those at nearby Tywyn.

Barmouth promenade, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Hmm. Maybe it’s Art?

And the housing stock, though benefiting from sea views, had seen better times.

Housing on the Barmouth promenade, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

The fact is that Welsh Councils are underfunded and this is where it shows

It was almost a relief when the path left the promenade, crossed the railway line and joined the A496.  But there were few pleasures to be had from the curbside of this busy road. A church and cemetery at Llanaber offered some visual relief.

Cemetery at Llanber, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

Not really resting in peace

And the sight of the repairs to the railway line were a distraction from the roaring traffic.

Repairs on the railway line near Barmouth, photographed from the Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

The line is due to reopen to Harlech on May 1st – I wonder if they make the deadline?

The Wayside must be one of the most miserable looking watering holes I’d passed on the path.

The Wayside Inn, Llanber, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

It had a Fish and Chip shop extension

And there was no escaping the all pervasive caravan parks.

Caravan park at Llanaber, photographed from The Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes

How many?

At that point Tal-y -Bont ,where I had hoped to find a place to stay, was only a mile away, but it felt like a long mile.  I did not like the look of the roadside  Bed and Breakfast in Tal-y-Bont, so although tired, I was also relieved that they were not answering their phone or their door. (Peering through the windows, it had that spic and span look that made me think that within 10 minutes of setting foot in the place I would have wanted to scream).

The Wales Coast Path finally escapes the road here but I could see no prospect of accommodation if I did, so I walked on to Dyffryn Ardudwy. A sign in a butchers window of this busy village pointed to a farm Bed and Breakfast but a little further on a  brown tourist signed The Cadwgan Inn and pointed towards the beach.  Hope was restored

The lane crosses the railway line and station of Llanenddwyn and immediately afterwards on the right hand side was the Cadwgan Hotel.  It isn’t the prettiest of places but I was relieved that they were open at all and that they had rooms – albeit at a fairly stiff £55.  And a perfectly decent double room it was too, with an en-suite with a big bath and Neutrogena toiletries, although the bikkis were 2nd rate. The bar had Doom Bar and the wi-fi signal, though dodgy in my room, was fine there. I was well set up for the night.

Alternative to the road walk between Llanaber and Tal-y-bont

The Cicerone Guide I mention above does suggest a hill route on the Ardudwy Way that would take off two miles of the road walk but adds a very strenuous 4 miles or so to the days walk. Alternatively, at low tide I understand that it is normally possible to walk on the beach between Tal y Bont and Barmouth promenade but at the time of my walk the end of the promenade was closed due to the railway repairs. In January I corresponded with Quentin Grimley of The Wales Coast Path team at Natural Resources Wales about this roadside section. He hoped that they will “consider further the feasibility of improving the alignment of this section”. I have asked him for an update.

 

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