Aberavon sands

Wales Coast Path: Port Talbot to Swansea Bay

September 10, 2012 · 9 comments

Approximate distance: 11 miles. An easy walk on the level on mostly firm paths with no significant climbs. One soft section at Aberavon sands and a not very nice stretch for about a mile and a half  by the A48.

Walked 30 th June 2012

I had had the worst of nights at The Grand Hotel, my sleep interrupted through the night by banging doors  just outside my room. Bang, silence, bang, silence, bang. I concluded, in my state of semi-conciousness that some chain smoker had to leave the room every 10 minutes for a  fag outside.

Then, just as I was dropping off, the  fire alarm went off at 5. And then stopped. And then started again. And then stopped. Now I have read about people dying in the rooms because they can’t be bothered to get up and leave the building when the alarm goes off. So on the third occasion of its calling I got up , dressed and went downstairs. Some youth was looking blankly at an array of flashing lights on a panel but contrary to the impression he gave of knowing anything about anything, assured me that it was  a false alarm. So I returned to my room. But not for sleep. That opportunity was behind me. To add insult to injury, I found a silverfish in my bed in the morning. I wrote to complain to the manager and was duly ignored.

For this next leg I was joined by my friend Paul Steer. Apart from the pleasure of conversation this also meant that I took no notes of the walk, so pictures and memory will have to suffice.

This section of the path starts  within the Neath Port Talbot Council’s area. Their Rights of way Officer is Catrin Evans.

Her email is c.e.evans@neath-porttalbot.gov.uk

From the Grand Hotel our route was not entirely clear to us. We faffed around a bit and found a way under the A48 to join what is a designated cycle route (No.4). Re-checking my map, I think we needed to have picked up this route slightly back along the road towards Margam.  Either way, no great sights were lost to us, I think.

Backstreets  of Port talbot photographed from the wales Coast path by Charles hawes. Walking in Wales

The path takes you over a splendid blue painted bridge that crosses the A4241and  then crosses the River Afan by an asphalt covered bridge which must have been very fine in its time but has seen better days. A stone plaque announces that it was opened by the Aberavon Corporation in 1903.

The River Afan in Port Talbot photographed from the Wales Coast path by Charles Hawes

Re-united by this time with the cycle route, the path heads away from the harbour and makes for Aberavon beach and some interesting sculptures.

Sculpture on Aberavon beach photgraphed from the Wales Coast path by Charles Hawes. Walking in Wales.

And a very fine stretch of path it is too, with a substantial white painted railing, strong enough to resist any cyclist who might be at risk of careering over the edge. A green space separates the edge of Port Talbot from this beach side promenade. It feels like they were not sure what to do with it.  There are rather pathetic remains of a children’s park (Paul tells me that they have now been removed) and some more sculptures. Aberavon Sands are outstanding, and on this slightly dull (at times but not when I took this pic!) and windy day, all but deserted.

The far end of Aberavon sands near the River Neath photographed from the Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes. Walking in Wales.

As the path rounds Baglan Bay we could not resist an attempt to keep closer to the coast than the path decrees. This was a mistake as the sand is very soft and hard to walk on. I had warned my companion of my tendency to walk “off piste” so I take no responsibility for his inconvenience. We did get a very nice view of the River Neath as it nears its confluence.

The River Neath near its confluence at Baglan Bay photographed from near the Wales Coast Path by Charles hawes. Walking in Wales.

Near here, Paul, being an artist, took some pictures of debris on the sand. This is one of mine. His are probably better.

Photograph of beach on the wales Coast Path near Aberavon taken by Charles hawes. Walking in Wales.

There being no bridge across the river at this point, (“shame”, you say) the path heads inland, skirting  the gas fired Baglan Bay power station (hooray, another power station, that’s 5 since I started the Coast Path; I can’t get enough of them)

Baglan bay power station photographed from the Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes. Walking in Wales.

Ahead are the two bridges of the M4 and A48 which cross the river.  The path will take the latter, passing the Brunel Tower which housed a hydraulic ram, and near which  are the remains of the Britton Ferry Floating Dock,  designed by Sir Marc Brunel (Father of Isambard Kingdom Brunel), and now renamed the Brunel Dock  (we didn’t actually see this). A trust was formed in 2005 to further its restoration.

Brunel Tower at Britton Ferry photographed from the Wales Coast Path by Charles Hawes. Walking in Wales.

The rather noisy trek across the A48 bridge does give an excellent view over the local re-cycling station and of the River Neath , but you’ll still want to get this over with as quickly as possible. Sadly there is another mile of walking alongside the A 48 to go as the path turns left to turn back towards the coast. It does not make it though, turning right onto the B4290 and passing a pub/ restaurant with an attractive brick tower in its car park.

Shortly after passing this it is a relief to turn left off the road and follow the tow path of the Tennant Canal, which opened in 1824 and was part of a larger canal system which was largely used to transport coal from the Neath Valley. It closed for navigation around 1930.

The Tennant Canal on the wales Coast Path, photographed by Charles Hawes. Walking in Wales.

 This is a delightful and peaceful section of the path, still shared with No.4 cycle route . The narrow strip of grass between the path and the canal side has a wonderful colony of orchids. As the path approaches the docks of Swansea it passes through a little wood. It crosses a splendid modern bridge near the Prince of Wales Dock (opened 1881) and then turns to meet the side of the dock .

Prince of Wales Dock in Swansea on the wales Coast Path, photgraphed by Charles Hawes. Walking in Wales.

Pause to try and imagine this place as a busy waterway. The path runs along the north side of the Prince of Wales Dock. A Norwegian Church, very similar to the one at Cardiff marina, has been built on the corner of the dock.  This area is being completely transformed from a busy functional dock sided by manufactures’ of all kinds (human interest moment: Paul once worked here  in a factory which imported sausage skins and fell in love for the first time) to  smart apartments, cafes and a marina. Pause to get ice cream or hot drink from café as the temperature dictates.

We may have gone slightly off-path here, crossing a wide bridge over a lock a little nearer the sea than the official route, which, I think, passes through the marina.

Swansea marina on the Wales Coast Path photographed by Charles Hawes. Walking in Wales

It makes no odds and possibly brings you to the wide promenade at the edge of some of these smart apartments a little sooner. You are back at the coast, and the sea of Swansea Bay is a welcome sight.

Swansea Bay on the wales Coast Path, photographed by Charles Hawes. Walking in Wales.

After the apartments, the path keeps to the coast on asphalt that the dunes are trying to bury and runs behind the Civic Centre before emerging next to the busy A 4067, which runs along the edge of Swansea Bay.

At this point we headed through Swansea to the train station where I caught a train back to Bridgend. From there a short taxi ride took me back to my car at Ogmore. I was the first ride that he had had all afternoon – I tipped him well.

{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }

Anne Wareham September 10, 2012 at 10:39 am

Did I miss all the pictures of Paul? And the apology from the Not So Grand Hotel?

Reply

Charles Hawes September 10, 2012 at 12:39 pm

Ha Ha. He’s a shy man. No apology (or refund) received. They’ll be more of Paul revealed in two weeks time.

Reply

Paul Steer September 10, 2012 at 12:29 pm

Charles, thank you for not including my face, instead you get the back of me, which is what most people want to see once they have met me ! It was a great walk, I remember a convoy of classic cars on the way to a funeral at Aberavon, and we saw the legs of women at the SA1 development in Swansea – but that is another story, or an ode maybe. Sorry for taking your readers off piste at the Marina. Your debris photograph is better than mine, it is reminiscent of a fossil trace in rocks. My feet have recovered now, but I definitely recommend ( as you do) a good pair of boots.

Reply

Charles Hawes September 10, 2012 at 12:41 pm

My readers will benefit from you fully frontal in two weeks time. Yes, I had forgotten those classic cars. I thought it best not to mention the legs, but they were nice.

Reply

Martin September 11, 2012 at 9:05 pm

The Tennant Canal looks worthy of a walk itself : )

Reply

Charles September 11, 2012 at 9:19 pm

I love canalside walks. Yes it was smashing.

Reply

Nicky September 27, 2012 at 6:35 pm

Did most of this walk yesterday, even tho it rained on and off it was worth it 🙂 will be walking it again for sure.

Reply

lisa launder August 2, 2015 at 10:20 am

Hi i was wondering do you have a map of this walk, me and my team in work are doing a charity coastal walk for macmillan in aug and we need to find a walk based from port talbot the company have supplied us with a route but its starts in carmathen and ends in llanelli no where near port talbot! So looking for a good route with prefably people so we can raise money along the way, thanks in advance

Reply

Charles August 2, 2015 at 1:14 pm

I have not managed to crack getting maps into the posts, though I agree they would be useful. The Wales Coast Path official website has maps showing the route on a large scale OS map. You could just make up a circular route, I’m sure.

Reply

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post:

Copyright Charles Hawes (2012)