Offa’s Dyke Path day 9: Knighton to Cwm

Said to be the toughest section of the whole Offa’s Dyke Path, I have to agree. A long 13 mile day rather spoiled by being rained on for half of it.

Date walked: 10th June 2019

Distance: about 13 miles

Maps used: OS Explorer 201 (Knighton and Presteigne) and OS Explorer 216 (Welshpool and Montgomery).

Guide used: Walking Offa’s Dyke Path by Mike Dunn published by Cicerone in 2016

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Writing about a walk some 7 months after the event is a challenge as far accurate  recollection is concerned. I don’t make notes so I am hoping that the pictures will prompt my recall. I do remember this as being a really hard day that I was really glad to finish.

The Guide describes this as “the toughest section of the trail” with some steep climbs and equally steep descents. Looking back it seems to me that for “some” read “many”. Factor in that in the latter part of the day it rained heavily, making the descents treacherous and I will admit that I ended up very wet, fairly exhausted and a little miserable.

It started well enough, with the train depositing me at Knighton station just before 11am. Yes, a late start, but this was not far off the longest day of the year, so I had little doubt that I could make this quite long trek in daylight. Out of curiosity I popped into the Offa’s Dyke centre, where Paul and I had finished up in August the previous year. (I am certainly taking my time over this project). It seems like an altogether Good Place and does tea and cake but I didn’t linger for either.

The path passes by the centre and drops down to a recreation field where some local tots were no doubt having a picnic with their teddy bears.

Signing is rarely an issue on this path…..

….and there were several to remind me that I was situated exactly on the border between England and Wales.

Skirting the River Teme…..

…. I crossed over the railway line that had just brought me from Craven Arms….

…… and made a start on the first climb of the day, soon enjoying a fine view over Knighton and the Teme valley.

The path takes  a left around the side of Panpunton Hill and I made use of the memorial seat to one David Cadwallader.

I am not so curmudgeonly that I object to occasional memorials on paths (especially benches) but a second one within spitting distance did make me wonder where lines should be drawn.

The Guide points out that from near here there was a good view to the Knucklas viaduct (and, I might add, an opportunity to appreciate the textbook meandering of the river Teme).

The path levels off for a mile or so, taking the route of the Dyke, here degraded somewhat to a hump at the edge of the fields.

I plucked a crows feather off the grass to plant into a gatepost in hope that I might intrigue others as I had previously been intrigued.

It was a warm day and I was glad of a bit of shade as I made my way by the wooded edge of a slope that  climbs to Cwm-sanaham hill.

The hill boasts a Trig Point at a modest 1,328 feet, but it was a good excuse to stop for a rest…

…. and a selfie.

From Cwm-sanaham Hill the path kept to the top of the Dyke for a bit…

….. soon dropping quite steeply to a little valley with several farmhouses…..

…. one containing an interesting summerhouse glazed with salvaged windows.

In the valley, the path passed through a field with inquisitive cattle…..

…. and crossed a footbridge over an unnamed stream….

….before climbing up the other side, the dyke now much more defined as a steep bank and gully.

The next couple of miles was relatively easy going on a stony track, Offa’s Dyke Path sharing its route briefly with the Jack Mytton Way. 

A “hello” to solitary hiker (a local) proved to be one of the very few encounters with people that I had during the day…..

…..but it was near here that I had my first ever (and very brief) encounter with a Pole Cat which shot out in front of me and disappeared before I had a chance to even lift the camera to my eye. Very exciting!

Approaching Lanfair Hill, I passed a Dutch Barn….

…. and a dodgy skeletal Welsh Dragon….

…..before joining a quiet road where a signpost was doubling up as a waymark post, directing me towards Newcastle (on Clun).

It had clouded up considerably and as I came off the road  at Springhill Farm it began to rain.

This was a bit of a shame as the most challenging 6 miles was still ahead of me.

From the farm to the Clun valley bottom was about an easy mile on a decent track.

In the valley bottom the farm called Lower Spoad was indicated on the map as of historic interest.

After crossing the B4368, the path passed through a lush field…

….before reaching the river Clun and a smaller road. It was about here that I decided that the rain was not going to relent and paused to don the waterproof jacket and over-trousers.

From the river its was a long pull up the side of Graig Hill and down again to meet another minor road.  Somewhere along the way I passed the half -way mark for the whole walk, which I decided was worth getting the camera wet for.

Another slow climb – this time involving a long flight of steps ….

…. brought me to another minor road at Hergen. Down again from there, passing one of many huge ancient oaks…..

… the path now a snaking narrow line of bare earth.

At Middle Knuck I paused to take a pic of a house built onto the side of the hill, its several sections stepping down the hillside.

Writing now, I am glad that I didn’t consult the Guide at this point, which talks of  “three tough ascents, which coming at this stage of the day’s walk can sap the strength of  all but  the fittest”. I can safely say that I was not the fittest.

Reaching Churchtown (nowt but a hamlet with a church), I took refuge from the rain for a rest on the narrow stone bench in the porch.

( My Mother, I later discovered, has transcribed the gravestones here). The church of John the Baptist was simple and gloomy and did little to lift the spirits.

As predicted it was a continuous climb for half a mile from there, reaching around 1300 feet again near Edenhope Hill , and presenting me with another hill to climb.

There are times, and I find them coming more frequently, when despite having a map the heart sinks at seeing another hill to climb. This was one of those times. Still, as my Uncle Nigel would say, one has to keep buggering on.

So buggering on, on I climbed from the next valley’s bottom…..

….the light now fading (it was around 6) and the cloud and mist having reached path-level. I phoned the B&B from half way up this climb, glad to touch base with a friendly sounding man who expressed sympathy for my situation but who assured me that “its not too far to go”.

Well, it was easy for him to say, and I was greeted at the top of this climb by the view ( a very misty view) to another hill.

At the bottom of this hill a plastic box sat by the side of the path.

Hoping for chocolate in some form, opening the lid I was disappointed to find all sorts of gubbins and a notice that this was a Geocaching thingy. I have never got into this, but I’m sure its fun. But not as nice as chocolate. I replaced the lid.

I’d still not finished with climbing.  After crossing a stream by a footbridge….

…. I had a half a mile ascent to a minor road that also carried the route of the Kerry Ridgeway. 

At the top of the hill and tucked into the base of another of the grand old oaks was a perfectly serviceable and thoroughly soaked pair of walking boots.

What on earth? Why would anyone abandon their boots here?  I was pretty fed up with my own soaking boots by now but at this stage of the walk I was hardly going to finish in my (hopefully still dry) Crocs. Weird.

For my (thankfully last) descent I was back on the Dyke once more.

It was just after 7pm when I reached the road on which my B&B was situated and decidedly gloomy.

I thought that I had reached my destination at a roadside house at Cwm…

…. but another call to my hosts at Offa’s Dyke Cottage confirmed that they were just a couple of hundred yards further along the lane.

I have just discovered that I did take a few pics of the Cottage, so have introduced them here.

Adrian and Diane (Thirtle-Watts) couldn’t have been more welcoming. (Not strictly true as in my ideal world I’d have been greeted with a mulled wine and a bar of chocolate).  Their house was warm and I was shown up to my cosy room ….

…..and invited to take a bath whilst my clothes and boots began to dry out in their airing cupboard.

I had opted for an evening meal (there being no alternative anyway) and Diane’s Lasagne was excellent. Sadly, not served with alcoholic beverage option due to the technicality of their licence. But hey, my liver could nearly always be glad of the break.  For £50 (plus £10 for supper) it was a good deal. After supper I had the private use of a guest sitting room. Nice touch.

Doing B&B was new for them so they may not be on web sites yet, so if you want to get in touch their email is midwalesclassic@outlook.com and phone number 01588 620642. Highly recommended.