A pretty wet and dull first day of 4 walking the Llangollen Round in North Wales
Dates walked: 20th November 2018
Distance: 10.62 miles
Maps Used: OS Explorer 255- Llangollen and Berwyn
Guide Used: The Llangollen Round , obtainable via the website for the walk at this link (£5)
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Llangollen (pronounced langothlen with the welsh sound for the double “l” at the beginning which is nigh on impossible to describe), is a town in north Wales on the River Dee. Its a nice little place and boasts a steam railway line and a canal. So, fun for all the family.
It sits in the Vale of Llangollen and is surrounded by hills and moorland rising to around 2000 feet, so although many of the surrounding hills are called mountains if mountains they be then they are modest ones.
A few years ago some bright spark had the idea of creating a 33 mile circular route using existing rights of way, taking the higher ground around the Vale and crossing all the surrounding summits. Sounds fun, doesn’t it? Well I thought so. I just may not have been wise to choose late November to tackle it.
If you are ridiculously fit or foolhardy, the excellent little guide book reckons that the Round can be done in a day. Four days is the most that the authors reckon that it should require “at a leisurely pace”. I’m all for a leisurely pace and November days are short, so that’s what I had allowed.
It’s a long drive to Llangollen from home so I thought I’d take the train (to Ruabon) and then a bus (free with my over 60’s bus pass – whoopee). It was a good thought but it would have been better if I had got off the train at Ruabon and not Chester (where I had got to by the time I came out of my train-induced reverie). I didn’t have to wait too long for a train back. Sadly, I had also forgotten my bus pass which I had intended to use several times to get to and from my daily start/finish points. Add to these set backs a fairly awful weather forecast and things were not going according to plan.
I had booked myself into the Gales of Llangollen wine and food bar which has rooms and a wine and gift shop for 4 nights. My double en-suite room was spacious (if a little chilly) and I liked the wine bar decor so I thought I would eat there for the first night at least..
My olive oils and bread starter was fun….
…. but the burger was rather dry in texture (too lean), the bun un-toasted and the chips oily. Disappointing.
After a good nights sleep and having opted for the continental breakfast (nice) I was up for ignoring the drizzly outside.
The guide divides the route into 6 sections and makes useful suggestions about how to combine them according to your chosen level of strenuousness. On the first day I was going to tackle section F taking the bus to Carrog and then walking back into town at the end of the day from the point where section F joins section A. If that sounds complicated this diagram from the guide should help.
The bus stop was only a few hundred yards away and the journey was only about 20 mins to my drop off on the A5 near Carrog; I resentfully handed over my £2.80.
The guide has a description of each section but I had some difficulty finding the right track to start on. The one I did take did go uphill, so that was reassuring.
And at first the visibility was not bad so that I quickly had a nice view over Carrog and to the hills beyond where I would finish the walk in 4 days time.
A bloke on a quad bike zoomed up, scattering a mass of pheasants, and told me that my intended route through the wood was impassable and that I would need to go round the edge of the wood instead.
I wasn’t sure that I believed him, but didn’t want to risk having to re-trace my steps so I made my way round the edge of the Carrog Plantation. It wasn’t easy and after a while of struggling through the tussocky grass and bumpy, boggy ground I delved into the wood and picked up a track within it.
This track gave out towards the top of the wood so I had to leave the wood and return to traipsing over now very boggy ground to skirt the wood and find my path again on its southern most corner.
From the wood I had a two mile climb on a narrow path up to Moel Fferna. As I climbed it began to rain and and I soon had very little visibility.
I’d reached 2066 feet by the trig point and the guide waxes lyrical about the views to be had to the distant Berwyn and Clwydian hills. I could see about 20 yards.
Although the track from here due east was reasonable, for the most part I had very little to see but the track itself.
Although the rain persisted the mist did lift to give me some tantalising glimpses of the surrounding views.
I saw one person, who proved to be taking his dog for a walk not far from his parked up car.
For a couple of miles the path followed the edge of the Ceiriog Forest – a conifer plantation. The track pretty boggy in places and there was a lot of surface water.
For quite a lot of the time it was also quite narrow, so that I was often brushing against wet foliage.
After the forest the path heads north-east, to take in the summit of Vivod Mountain (1837 feet).
Taken in the rain on my phone – I wasn’t going to give my decent camera a soaking.
From that hill the path headed east again, passing by summit of Y Foel, where on a fine day one might have made a detour to see the pile of stones that remains of Biddulph Tower and for another trig-snap, but this wasn’t a fine day so I didn’t bother. I was quite glad to get off the path at Finger Farm and join a small road – at least it wouldn’t be that wet underfoot.
The Llangollen Round takes this rather dreary road for several miles. For today I only had to do about two miles on it. I reached a junction where a road heads downhill to the town. This would be where I would return to the next day so I turned off the path facing a rather weary two-mile trudge.
Not long after I had turned off I stuck my thumb out as a car approached and I was delighted that a woman with a wonderfully untidy car stopped – she was picking her child up from nursery school in Llangollen and took me most of the way. That was the best bit of what had not been a very pleasant day.
Poor you, once again suffering for the benefit of your readers (whom you seem to be treating somewhat generously after pointing out how garden work was getting in the way of blogging). Shame that you were denied some lovely views. Your only consolation is that “the reward of suffering is experience”. (quote copyright Aeschylus). You could simply describe the Welsh “ll” as the voiceless alvelor lateral fricative. of course, which isn’t impossible to say but impossible to remember. I can give you a quick pronunciation lesson sometime if you want. Be careful about being picked up by unknown ladies in remote parts of Wales! https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/9772379/Witchcraft-thriving-in-the-Welsh-countryside.html
Hello John. Many apologies for this tardy response to your very very interesting comment. Quoting Aeschylus, eh. Do I sense a touch of Borris influence? Surely not? Love your take on the “ll”. I’ll try and remember that. I’m happy to take my chances on anyone offering a lift, despite this leading me to be threatened with a knife in Morocco (I realised afterwards that he was rightly expecting me to pay for the lift).