A not too demanding  8 mile walk on the Cambrian Way at the beginning of the Rhinogs that started poorly but finished brilliantly.

Date walked: 23rd August 2019

Distance: about 8 miles

Maps used:  OS Explorer OL 18- Harlech, Porthmadog and Y Bala

Guide used: Cambrian Way by A.J.Drake (7th edition, 2016) , though a new guide has recently been published which is much better: Walking the Cambrian Way by George Todd and Richard Tyler (Cicerone Press)

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This was the plan for today. After breakfast at the Min -Y-Mor hotel (where we had stayed last night and had a very acceptable meal in the bar). Paul and Neil would drive to Cwm Bychan, and leave a car there, then we would quit the hotel and  take a car into Barmouth. We would walk for two days, wild camping near Llyn Hywel (about 9 miles), and refreshed and raring to go, we would tackle Rhinog  Fach, then Rhinog Fawr  and drop down to Cwm Bychan (just 5 miles, albeit with these two big hills), then take the car to a campsite at Llanbedr for a hot shower and slap up meal at a local pub. And the next day we would cross the remaining Rhinog section.

Yeah well, the best laid plans…

As we sat having our Full English (no lava bread or cockles in sight), outside it was pissing down. A conference was required, but the outcome was a forgone conclusion- we hadn’t come here to climb two of the most dramatic hills of the Way  in the rain or be deprived of the splendid views that they would afford. And the forecast was much better for tomorrow – cloud at first but clearing up at 12.00 and a sunny evening.  So we needed a Plan B.

Staying another night at the hotel wasn’t an option and this was the Bank Holiday weekend. We decided to go to Llanbedr and camp there, then revert to plan A but finishing this trip at Cwm Bychan. Simples. You still with me?

So after an amble around Bala and nice cup of coffee in one of its many cafes and a mini walk we went to Llanbedr and set up camp in The Mill campsite.

Mine’s the middle one

The Mill had just one tent in it and no one around to give our £10 a head to. It is a simple place with a clean shower block and no shop. It was great being back inside my Campari Scout tent – I have had it for decades and even carried it, if I remember rightly on some treks I did in my 20s.  Before the trip I had handed over to Neil a nice futon to have under me, a pillow, lights – all mod cons. Cosy. (I was lending Neil my much lighter Terra Nova Laser Competition 1 (see right). OK that’s enough tent and camping talk. Neil (the star!) broke open a half bottle of Jack Daniels as pre-dinner drinks and a jolly time was had by all at The Anchor Inn.

It rained in the night and it wasn’t the brightest of mornings but the forecast was still OK, so around 7 we broke camp, stuffed our damp tents into the cars and drove up to Cwm Bychan (very pretty and very narrow road that gave Paul the heebejeebeys), leaving Neils car there and drove back to Barmouth to start the walk. Blimey, that’s 500 words and we haven’t taken a step. Moving on.

It was stiff old pull from Barmouth by an old quarry….

Nice view to Barmouth harbour

… and though both Neil and I had the route on our phones and paper maps to hand, it was still a bit tricky to keep to the correct path.

Here’s Neil in “just checking” mode

The quarry became a gully and as we climbed so our views deteriorated. Near the top of this first bit, an adventurous  family were getting instruction in How to Scare Yourself Shitless.

The thing about walking in the cloud is that you don’t have much visual clues to go on and sheep  paths can be mistaken for those more suited to humans.

Lost sheep?

But we took it slowly and with multiple checks on our phones we reached a stile over a wall – always a good sign. Sheep not using stiles. By now it was drizzling. Bugger. But the forecast was good.

A mile or so of fairly easy walking and fairly wet ground….

… brought us to the next to a trig point of Bwlch Cwmarria (512 feet). It wasn’t mentioned in the guide book and it was on the other side of the wall so I couldn’t be bothered to take a pic.

We trudged on in the murk for another mile or two, the sun remaining stubbornly absent. The ridge of  Bwlch y Rhiwgyr was passed, the “fine views” reported in the Guide from here being cruelly hidden from us.  We reached the trig point of Diffws  at 13.48. At 2,460 feet this is the 2nd highest point of the Rhinog section.  We were not impressed.

We were clearly standing the edge of a steep ridge yet all we could see was each other. The guide talks of “magnificent views” at this point. I was feeling seriously pissed off. On we went for another half a mile, then something remarkable happened – the cloud lifted a bit and we could see below us Llyn Dulyn.

It wasn’t a great view but we were grateful for small mercies. Things were looking up. We could actually see ahead of us ,too.

I think it was especially exhilarating as I think I had almost given up hope of us seeing anything.

Paul forged on ahead, his instinctual drive towards the end of a walk kicking in.

It was pretty wet under foot and inside my boots; I regretted not putting on my waterproof socks.

As we climbed the ridge of Crib y Rhiw we even caught sight of some blue sky.

Perhaps it was going to be OK after all. Towards the top of that ridge we really did begin to be able to appreciate the surrounding countryside.

A glassy pond deepened the now increasingly blue sky in its reflections.

Looking back, we could almost  see the summit of Cadair Idris.

Only very slightly hidden in some light cloud.

By 4pm we arrived at the rather insignificant cairn that marks Y Lethr – check point 25 of the Way and at 2,475 feet the highest point of the Rhinog range.

Straight ahead of us was Tremadog Bay and the Lleyn Penisula. The ground was level and soft without being damp.

The views around tremendous.

My intended stopping point near Llyn Hywel was just half a mile further on but we agreed that this spot was the perfect place for us to spend the night. It was early to stop but with only 5 miles or so to do tomorrow (easy peasey) there was nothing to be gained by going on and we would lose this wonderful place, so we made camp.

For Paul, that meant pitching his tent.

Tomorrows peak of Rhinog Fach ahead.

For Neil and I, who had decided to bivvy it was just a question of choosing ones spot and laying out our bags.

By 5pm we were established, taking it easy, and enjoying the now warm sunshine. Some old chap (meaning he looked at least as old as Neil and I) turned up with a full camping gear filled rucksack and told us that he also thought that this would be his spot for the night. We told him to clear off that he was very welcome but after a few minutes he appeared to decide that he would walk on. A thought reader?

I set my socks and boots on the cairn to dry off a bit in the warm breeze.  We even had a mobile signal up there so there was time and opportunity to check in on the outside world. (not good)

We ate early, each of us carrying little stoves; a pot noodle for Paul, a tasty freeze dried chilli con carne for me and a pasty for Neil. Neil won Star Brewer (again) for producing a miniature whisky for each of us, which deserved a picture but sadly didn’t get one. By 7pm the sun was beginning to light up the bay and we retired to our accommodations.

I had a final wander around in this most perfect of evening light.

Finally the cloud had lifted off Cadair Idris….

… and the hills that we had walked over were bathed in yellow tones and forming deep shadows.

Life is pretty good when there is nothing to do but enjoy the setting sun, snug in an insulated bag.

Goodnight!