Date walked: 12th April 2016
Distance: nearly 12 miles
Map used: OS Explorer OL 13 Brecon Beacons National Park (Eastern Area)
Guide: Cambrian Way by A.J.Drake (7th edition) and website
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Let me say from the outset that I intend to keep any knob references to the absolute minimum. I apologise for the amount of pointing which has crept into these posts; steps will be taken to reduce this in future.
For today’s walk Neil and I were joined by Paul, who was prompt as ever in our meet up at a small car park at Gospel Pass (hallelujah). Wikipedia reckon that it the highest road pass in Wales. It follows the Vale of Ewyas from Llanfihangel Crucorney to just below Hay Bluff and then drops down to Hay-on-Wye, and is one of my favourite drives. It climbs continuously in this most pretty of valleys, passing the ruins of Llanthony Priory. It is single track for much of the time. Anne and I have driven it many times (well, usually I drive as Anne finds it a bit hairy and she does not do reversing). Having driven up it, I had the treat today of driving us back down to where we needed to start the walk at Forest Coalpit.
There is neither forest nor coal pit at this most insignificant of hamlets (the coal bit refers to charcoal). There is a telephone box, though and a parish notice board. Our route started with a sharp climb up a little road that I know very well.
Off to the right is the property called The Pant, where Jeremy and Camilla Swift (she, the ex gardens editor of Saga Magazine) have made a most unusual garden that opens for the National Gardens Scheme. Don’t be too put off by that – it is well worth seeing. A hundred yards further up the hill is New Inn Farm, where Stephen Anderton (author of that wonderful book “Discovering Welsh Gardens” (sadly, out of print) and a writer on gardening for The Times) has his home.
And almost opposite him is a farm that has a small quarry ….
…. from where we got a fine piece of sandstone which we had carved by Caitriona Cartwright for our garden.
Phew, that was an exciting start to the day, wasn’t it? Time for a point.
And a map check.
We had left the road and were on a narrow track heading for Gaer Farm, but veered left before the farm, passing (though not really noticing) an Iron Age Hill Fort site called Twyn y Gaer.
Time for some more pointing.
Our path was taking a ridge that was already giving us some fine views over the Vale of Ewyas.
Our pleasure in the unspoilt scenery was cut across somewhat by some fellow walker (or rider, I guess) having discarded a crisp packet, which we duly stuffed in my bag along with one or two other bits of litter we found nearby. Good Deed done for the day.
This was easy and very pleasant walking on short grass and firm ground. A rather insignificant stone in the path is known as Dialgarreg or the Revenge Stone. Read the link – but it’s probably rubbish
Over to the left I was very taken with the tapestry of tree plantations in the Mynydd Du Forest, though my companions seemed less impressed.
Time for a point.
It was the most perfect days for walking; sunny but not hot and with a light breeze. Above us, skylarks sang out their greeting (warning?) which for me always engenders a sense of peace.
And it was very peaceful, with no other sounds than our own, and with wild horses grazing amongst the bracken.
About a mile along the ridge was a large cairn, marking Garn Wen, which was a good opportunity for a pose. I added a couple of rocks for good measure.
About a mile further on a pile of stones at a crossing of paths marked where one might climb down the hill for lunch (or even stay the night) in the Llanthony Priory Hotel, but nice though the place is, it would be a breathtaking climb back up. Up to now, most of the walk today had also been following The Beacons Way – and its route takes this path to the Priory.
We were still climbing at this point. The top of the hill ahead of us is called Bal Mawr, where the Trig Point has a plaque saying that it became redundant in 2013 and has subsequently been adopted.
This raised several questions. How does a Trig Point become redundant? Why this one? How do you go about adopting redundant ones? Why would you want to? What would you feed it?
Time for a pose.
The next couple of miles continued along the ridge….
…. the horses being entirely un-fazed by our proximity.
Looking back, there was a good view onto Llanthony Priory.
Ahead at a small cairn known as Blacksmith’s Anvil (I think) we stopped for a bite to eat and a drink. And a pose.
Ahead and below us to our left we began to see the Grwyne Fawr reservoir, which prompted a lot of excitement amongst us.
Paul and I had walked the next couple of miles a year or two back; I remember thinking what a good spot the reservoir would make for a wild camp sometime. This next stretch was a bit boggy underfoot and more demanding on our beginning-to-tire legs.
Another cairn provided a compelling reason to have a bit of a sit and a wonder about when we were going to head off to the east to mount Lord Hereford’s Knob (Knob gag No.1)
We found the path shortly after the cairn and a mile or so after that we reached the north escarpment of the Black Mountains;
the views were just fab….
…. Neil being moved to not only express elation….
… but also to insist on demonstrating his multi-tasking skills by pointing and posing at the same time.
At this point Lord Hereford’s Knob (I don’t know why it’s called that but there is a folk song about it – it’s quite fun – apologies for the porny pics) was looming above us. Huge it was (Knob gag No.2). But unlike any Knob that I had seen before. (Final Knob gag)
We trudged up its slope a little wearily, but still enjoying the company of horses…
… and now benefiting from the views back into the Black Mountains.
When we reached the top Neil had a sit…
… and Paul, being significantly younger than us (I know, but he’s had a hard life), demonstrated one of his break-dancing moves.
Now after such a pleasant walk I am sure that the following pic will offend some of my readers but as you know, this is a “warts and all” blog, so if the sight of a rotting horse’s carcass causes distress look away now.
Here’s the antidote pic.
There was more drama to come. As we walked down from the Knob towards our car, a farmer on a quad bike appeared, driving up the face of the escarpment and then parking the bike. Strange place to start a walk methought. But we then saw that he was obviously concerned for one of his sheep who was grazing recklessly on the steep slope.
The sheep proved to be as stubborn as it was sure-footed and the farmer, who was less sure-footed, retreated to his bike and sped off for his tea. We, meanwhile, ambled down the now gritted path back to the car.
Apologies, again, for the horse.
An excellent read, Charles, with a great set of images. I can’t say I mind the dead horse – life’s rich tapestry, etc.
We’ve been researching hills for our trip to New Zealand next year, and they all seem to be Knobs out there.
Thanks Ian. Glad the horse didn’t offend. More gruesome than the seal, though. So, loads of knobs in NZ eh. Thought that was just an Oz rumour.
Jolly good and you had some sunshine which is always cheerful for the reader too. Am I correct in my observation that this is an unusual post as many more ‘figure’ pics? Do three-somes tick the box? Nothing infered just banter.
Yes, more figure pics. Neil is very demanding. I’m sure I could manage a threesome sometime.
That was a lovely walk. So many good things to point to…. The views along the ridge were delightful, and then the view of ‘the north’ at the end. Fantastic…..
You neglect to mention we walked over 11 (?) miles. Our first proper hike of The Way. With longer to come…! Becoming proper intrepid, we are 🙂
Did I omit distance? Will correct forthwith. And Anne says the beginning is incoherent. Yes, we’ll be camping soon!
Thanks for the warning. I remembered to look away when I came to! Are these walks a lot harder for Paul cos he’s got shorter legs so has to walk further? Perhaps the three of you could divert a bit on the next leg and have a drink at The Three Cocks in Three Cocks. If you do, get someone to take a photo of the three of you ….. 🙂
It’s the stiles that challenge Paul. We usually have to help him over. None today, though. I doubt Neil will accept any diversion on the next leg. It’s long enough as it is. More soon.
Excellent if initially incoherent.
Hmm. Will review coherence. But excellent is nice.
Ahem – aside from my excellent break dancing – I wish to point out that there was a debate about where Lord Hereford’s knob was actually located and that I (even though diminutive and unable to negotiate stiles ) was able to locate the knob successfully without a map or excessive pointing.
Thank you.
Well of course you could. Medical staff are trained to locate these anatomical things! 😉
This is all getting to be a bit of a “Carry On” ?
Fair Play. You know a knob when you see one.
Yes..Fair play. Your call on that spot on…. Your celebratory (break) dance at getting that right was a bit OTT though ! 🙂