Date walked: 14th September 2014

Distance: about 8 miles

Map used: OS Explorer OL2 “Yorkshire Dales – Southern and Western areas.

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Following yesterday’s entertainment, I didn’t have the best of nights (it was rubbish actually), making several more trips to the loo. At around 4am I took the two Lopermadide tablets that I had in my portable pharmacy; it was a Sunday so there was no chance of stocking up in Horton.

In the characterless refectory I decided upon a cautious breakfast of poached eggs on toast and black coffee, earwigging the meanwhile, to the fascinating conversation of a bunch of Geordies who had completed the Three Peaks Challenge yesterday and had drunk a lot last night.

Horton is a pleasant village on the River Ribble. It also has a station on the Settle to Carlisle railway line.  I crossed the line without needing to make a detour to its toilet and headed up on a path described on the map as Sulber Nick. This is clearly the route that the Three Peaks challengers take as it had a lot of discarded water bottles and chocolate bar wrappers (shame on them). And some nice cattle.

Nice but not as nice as Aubracs

Looking back, there was a good view even on this cloudy day, back to Pen-y-Ghent.

I’ll save that climb for Bob

Looking ahead, I could make out the profile of Ingleborough, – the second highest of the three peaks. Feeling a bit knackered as I was it seemed reassuringly near.

A nice steady climb

A  lichen-covered finger-post marked a crossroads between the Pennine Bridleway and the path heading for Ingleborough.

Yes, that is a pork pie

Here and there, the underlying limestone had broken though the thin soils.

At Nick Pot (not that I saw the Pot as such) my path joined The Dales High Way but no sign marked this reunion.  Other than  the discarded detritus of the walkers, runners and bicyclists, the only sign of human activity was the path itself and a ruined farmstead.

A Very Picturesque Landscape

And sheep, of course.

Clearly the breed of choice in the region

The approach to Ingleborough was made on a comfortably wide gritty path, the gentle gradient well suited to my slightly fragile constitution.

I bet the bicyclists love this bit

For the little it said, I think the National Park authority might not have touristified the place by attaching an explanatory board to an otherwise natural pile of large blocks of stone.

Better without?

As the climb became a bit steeper the path became more worn.

A passing couple volunteered what all walkers know; it’s the coming down that’s the harder on the legs. The last bit of the going up was really quite easy. It was busy though, with walkers in both directions.

That’s the route of the Dales High Way

Below me and to the right  several people were following the  Dales High Way north. Bob had booked me into Ingleton, though, which takes the route shown on the map as A Pennine Journey.

This one taken on my phone – its a bit rubbish

The top of Ingleborough is quite flat, its trig point (at 2,372 feet)  looking rather incidental in this wide space (and not as high as the highest point of a nearby shelter made for walkers to have their lunch.) The views were best on the furthest side, though still rather misty. A couple assured me from their experience today was one of the better ones.

I believe that that is Whernside in the distance

As descents go, coming off the hill was relatively painless and made a lot easier by the series of solid steps that had been made for our benefit.

It’s all downhill now

The view back to the edge of the hill revealed its solid limestone geology.

As the steps gave way to a steep but grassy path, a guy approached carrying his bicycle. This struck me as a somewhat unnecessary burden considering how little he would be able to use it in the near future.

I bet his thighs are impressive

He explained that he was practising for the Three Peaks Challenge in a weeks time when fellow madmen would carry their bicycles over the Three Peaks of Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-Ghent in one day (and ride them in between) .  Whatever turns you on.

On the way off the hill I passed just one farm, shown on the map as Crina Bottom.

I don’t suppose you get many calm days up here

Above it a modestly sized black wind turbine  was making a swishing noise in the stiff breeze as it trickled electricity down the hill.

From here the path follows a car-width track down to the B6255.

As I approached the village I launched the Maps app on my iPhone and searched for Seed Hill Guest House. The built-in GPS found me and it and the little blue blob on the screen guided me to the place. I love this app!

A cheerful way in

In the front of the C17th cottage the owner has small nursery. I couldn’t have been happier with my accommodation. My bags were waiting and the friendly owner, Adrian,  showed me up the stairs to a little landing with a low doorway opposite the stairs. “This is my favourite room” he said. And I could see why. The bathroom to the left of the entrance was painted dark, dark green and had a massive roll topped bath and a tiny cast iron fireplace. To the right a narrow corridor had a little table and comfy chair and pretty wallpaper that extended to the most inviting bed.

Perfect

It was only around 1.30pm and I had managed the walk without any problems down below (see yesterdays post), so  after a super bath I thought that I deserved lunch. Ingleton is a nice little village with several cafes and I had a look at them all before settling on the wonderfully named Frumenty and Fluffin.  I sat outside and had a very sensible pot of tea and a sandwich. Then I went inside and bought an enormous piece of chocolate cake to have later.

Ingleton  also has a super sweet shop.

Prezzie for Anne

Time for a snooze.

I liked my room so much that instead of eating out that night I bought bread, cheese and tomatoes and a couple of mini bottles of wine (and more anti-run pills) from the Coop and had a picnic watching telly. Then I had the cake. A perfect evening.

My bags were being transferred each day by the excellent Brigantes walking holidays.