Date walked: 5th January 2022
Map used: Ordnance Survey Explorer OL 14- Wye Valley and Forest Of Dean (having downloaded the route onto my phone).
Distance: about 6 miles – this is the second part of Stage 1 of the route as described on the website below
Website for path: There is no written guide to the path but this website has the basics.
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This section of the path initially follows the road from The Veddw to Tintern Cross (which I have always known as Pont y Saeson – I’ll come back to that). I was surprised by the road-walking as looking at the map there is an obvious cross-country route on footpaths that would get to The Fountain Inn by way of Panta Farm. I took this up with David Morgan (who is Mr Monmouthshire Way). He said that he had always found the cross-county route muddy and unpleasant to walk. Fair enough – I’ve only walked it once and that was years ago.
So having walked down the lane from my home, todays outing starts where the footpath through New Wood reaches The Veddw (which, in their folly, the planners refer to as Ravensnest Wood Road – more about that anon) .
As you can see, the lane is pretty rough at this point and the stream which the map records as Fedw Brook often floods the road in winter. This can become a treacherous sheet of ice – you have been warned. As you reach a bend to the right a smaller lane goes off to the left.
This is Coal Lane, also called Cole Road; it runs all the way to Devauden. I understand the name comes from the fact that charcoal used to be brought down it to feed the C17th Tintern Abbey Furnace lower down the valley – a fascinating place.
It’s one of those deeply sunken lanes. When we came the lane’s surface here was down to the Red Sandstone bedrock. Further up the lane was a stone barn owned by Panta Farm. They applied to “convert” this into a house which was contrary to planning policy due to its remoteness. Conversion meant that the character of the lane would be completely changed by it being concreted over. We and CPRW opposed the conversion; it was a bitter battle which went on for some years. We lost, of course. I always carry a nasty feeling when I walk up the lane.
Just round the corner is another barn “conversion” which now goes by the name of Fedw Barn. We are friends with the occupants.
When we came this was just a single small barn. We didn’t oppose the conversion as it is next to the lane and another property but it demonstrates what barn “conversions” really mean. They means that the original building gets new openings for windows, extended and outbuildings allowed, LPG gas tanks get installed and fences put up and it all becomes domestic.
The last property on the lane is Veddw Farm (also friends). It used to be owned by someone big in electricity who occasionally used to get dropped off home by helicopter. Chances are if you walk past you’ll be greeted enthusiastically by their dogs – they don’t approach though. The lane rises steeply at the end to join the road that goes down to Tintern.
I was surprised some years ago to discover that it is also called Ravensnest Wood Road. Anyway, The Monmouthshire Way turns left onto this road, passing Fedw Pool.
This is a dammed pond, part of the system of extensive management of water that extends from here all the way down to the furnace and beyond. It used to be a fishing pond but not any longer. Some years after we moved here we re-homed our goldfish here. They were eating the frog spawn.
Several small streams join Fedw Brook which runs out of the pond…..
… and when the road reaches the drive leading to Panta Farm …..
…another stream joins it and now it is known as the Angiddy and the valley the Angiddy Valley (the map spells it Anghidi – spellings are fluid around here). From Fedw Pool to Pont-y-Saeson the bonus of this road walk is that you are constantly within earshot of running water.
Panta farm is where Brooke’s Ice Cream is made which is sold widely in Monmouthshire and beyond. They also make the Angiddy cheese which is like Perl Wen but not as nice.
A few hundred yards after the drive to Panta Farm the Angiddy meets its next obstacle – Ravensnest Fishery.
The fishery didn’t exist when we came to live here, the small river passing through a series of dams and weirs that were all part of the historic management of the water relating to the furnace (and possibly other uses). The stream/river was the favoured habitat of dippers. The ponds associated with the dams get regularly silted up from the red soil runoff from Panta Farm. And, equally regularly, earth movers are brought in to scrape the soil out of the ponds and dump it at the side of the river. You won’t be surprised to hear that we, the RSBP, CPRW and others also opposed the approval of the fishery. And failed.
The fishery has a car park…
… and signs of course…..
…. and an office building with outside shelter, tables and chairs. In the past the owner has applied to site 5 holiday cabins here.
Without seeking obtaining permission its owner subsequently sited a small caravan in a prominent spot and later replaced that with a huge building without planning permission which he wanted to pretend was a caravan then convert into a dwelling. The planners refused and told him to remove it. Instead he has appealed the refusal and covered it in a green tarpaulin. The fish, by the way, are imported from Devon.
When you walk by the fishery have a think about whether all this is really in sympathy with this being an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
The lane continues down to Pont-y-Season and is being undermined by the Angiddy in places.
There’s a farm at Pont-y-Season called Cross Farm. They’ve made a garden by the river populated by herons and a deer. I expect more animals will join the menagerie in due course. Pont-y-season translates as “Bridge of Saxons” and the story goes that there was a battle here to repel invading Saxons led by Tewdig formally a Welsh King and later hermit of Tintern Abbey (what?). I’ve no idea what evidence there is for this.
The Monmouthshire Way turns left here, passing a row of cottages.
Just after the cottages a wide gate marks the end of what I understand to be a Roman road, though it is locked and looks like any other farm track.
The Way does join this track but you have to walk a few hundred yards further on and take some steep steps off the road….
…. and climb through a field to meet it.
From here the Way follows this track up through the field…
… to arrive at an outbuilding and what appeared to be someone’s back “garden”.
Beyond a willow circle was an almost collapsed shed….
… and a rather fine Gloucestershire Old Spots pig.
This plot has an attractive if rusty metal gate at its far side….
… from where a track…..
…. leads down to The Fountain Inn.
The Fountain used to be a regular watering hole of ours. When we came to the area the landlord was one Chris Rabbits and his wife Judith- a more cheerful and welcoming publican would be difficult to find. He had the most extraordinary giggle and once a year they would throw a free lavish party with food for his customers. It’s still a nice pub with decent food and drink.
The Way takes some steps opposite the pub which were in a pretty poor and overgrown state……
…. the path then following the side of field to meet a pair of gates that cross a track that leads to Wain-y-Parc farm.
The Way, skirts the farm alongside a field that would normally carry a crop….
… and besides which was a flock of sheep feasting on bales of hay.
More sheep were encountered in the next field…..
….. at the end of which a redundant bramble enclosed stile was walked around to enter another field.
Climbing to the corner of this field a further double stile was encountered in even worse condition.
A further short climb through the field brought me to a tied up gate …..
…..and some rather beautiful black cows accompanied by a brown bull.
The gate climbed over, the path leaves the next field by an unmarked stile and enters Kit’s Wood.
The track through the wood was easy enough to follow…..
… though pretty wet and muddy just before it joined a little lane.
If you were walking in the other direction this footpath might be difficult to find as there was no finger post at the roadside.
Turning left onto the road the Way twists and turns for a few hundred yards on the little lanes and footpaths of the hamlet of Whitelye.
A phone box is still in place sans phone……
… and I was glad to have the route on my mobile phone as there were no signposts to indicate which was to go at several junctions.
I don’t know if High Beech Farm is still a farm or not but they had several rather attractive brown goats.
The Way crosses a lane shortly after High Beech Farm to enter the open grassland that is Wyes Wood Common.
The Way crosses the common, passing a low stone wall…
… to reach a small stream and a stile at the edge of the village of Catbrook.
The Way takes a little path through the village by a stone wall. I was met with a sign telling me that the path was blocked by a fallen tree.
There being no alternative path I resolved to scale the fallen tree only to find that the path had, in fact, been cleared.
The Way passes through a small wood before reaching a fine stone stile.
On the other side was a small field with another of these lovely stone stiles…..
… and beyond that an open field with strikingly good stone walls.
The map gives no name to these fields but it seemed to me that there was something unusual and particular about the place.
Another stone stile…..
…. led to a final one to enter Ninewells Wood.
The path through the wood was pretty soggy at first….
… but thankfully this became a better track ……
……that dropped down via a footpath and stile……
… to the road near Cleddon. From here it would be a detour of less than half a mile to visit Cleddon Falls.
If I had masterminded the route I would have worked in this detour. And I understand that the path by the falls has recently been much improved
Instead, the Way crosses the road …..
….and takes a track by the side of the woods to Cleddon Hall. – birthplace of the Nobel Prize winning philosopher Bertrand Russell.
The Way turns a sharp left here, heading, according to the Finger Post, for Scotland.
The path through the woods was soft in places, but not seriously so.
It emerged at the hamlet of Cotland….
… crosses the road and then takes a track (walking by a garage/MOT station previously unknown to me) names on the map as Henllan Lane.
By this time I am keeping a close eye on my watch. A bus back to Devauden was due in Trellech at 2.51, the next being some three hours later. I had about 25 minutes to get there. The village was visible though the hedgerow, the tall elegant spire to St Nicholas Church a landmark for miles around.
The lane was firm and I upped my pace, reaching the road that leads into the village with 10 minutes to go.
As I approached the village I got to a point that if I missed the bus I would be able to see it go by. It was due in 5 minutes.
By the time I could see the bus stop I reckon I had a chance of flagging the bus down.
As it was I reached the bus stop with two minutes to spare.
And the bus was on time; I was the only person on it for the whole of the way back to Devauden.
If you enjoyed this post, or didn’t or have something fascinating/banal to say about it, do please make a comment below. It’s just nice to hear from you. And if you would like to be notified when the next post is published please put your email into the Subscribe box on the right of this; I promise that it will not be passed on to anyone else.
Wouldn’t it better just to have a small van instead of a big bus since if it is almost empty most of the journey? By the way, thanks for sharing another one of your interesting walk with us readers.
That’s a good idea Wendy. I guess they are stuck with a load of too big buses so that it would cost the County more to replace them than run them empty.
Thank you. I really enjoy your blog as they make me feel as if I am there walking too.
That’s nice, thanks.
I’m wandering if you report the broken down stiles, blocked paths etc to the local county PROW (Public Rights of Way) Officer. They can be helpful and I understand that the more reports they have, the more they are able to support applications for funding for their jobs
Thank you for reminding me. I do intend to report issues!
Have done 6 reports of issues today!
His history is a bit up the creek, so if anyone is interested in Pont y Saison and Tewdrig they would do better to try here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tewdrig
Always happy to be corrected!
Hi Charles. Enjoyed your walk with my feet firmly up having just walked the Dog for Six Miles around Nearby Portishead. About 3/4 of the way through i realised that i has passed the same way last year when i did a guided (Sue Gearing) 5/6 mile circular walk from Nine Wells Car Park to Trellech, via Parkhouse, and back again. I recognised the Scotland/Cotland finger post. I took a photo thinking it was a bit odd but the realised when i got home that someone had hand draw the S.
I have to agree that some of the signage and stiles in that area are shocking. I got totally lost going towards Trellech on the other side of the main road to Devauden when the turn i was looking for had completly dissapeared (near a new Barn Conversion i may add) and i had to make my way through some woods before i came to a sign for the Trellech Furnace in a very overgrown part of the woods but at least i was back on track. My Route followed the road mainly back to the Car Park from Trellech like yourself. Cheers Simon
Hi Simon. The one thing that has really helped me to now get lost is to have the map downloaded onto my phone. With the GPS signal it means that even if I have gone off route at least I will know where I am! Most OS maps come with a free download and the OS Maps app is free.
Thank Charles. I tend to rely on goggle maps but sometimes use an app called footpath which if you tap where you want to go it works the route out for you but like you say having a map downloaded makes much more sense in areas where phone signal can be a bit dodgy. Will have to dig out my OS Maps and get the codes. Have a good day. Simon
Thank you for writing the Blog. A couple of things. Please do report the broken stiles and please may I suggest that you also state that you were walking the Monmouthshire Way at the time. The CC is currently refusing to support the Way becoming official and evidence of people walking it and requiring furniture to be repaired can only be a positive thing.
I met a farmer near Whitelye and asked him about the provenance of the outstanding stone walls. He stated that a village used to exist nearby and the stone was robbed out from the now disappeared village. I am yet to research this information but looking at the stone walls, it’s clear to see that many are dressed stones.
Have done! In fact I would say that the best way to report issues with the path is to register with the County Rights of Way area on the web. Once you have done that it is very easy to raise an issue at a specific point on their map and to upload images. By doing this you raise a case and should get updated when it has been addressed. And that’s interesting about the walls. I agree the stone is dressed and far too good for field walls.
There’s a local tale that some of the walls around there and the folly at the top of Ninewells Wood were built by Napoleonic POWs.
That’s a great snippet, thanks. I wonder if it’s true. I bet a local historian would know.
There’s some interesting information here https://catbrookwood.wordpress.com/2013/11/20/ninewells-wood-and-its-history/
I walked the Monmouthshire Way last year. It is great to see the photos reminding me of the walk around old Monmouthshire which was very enjoyable and to be recommended. Angiddy Cheese and Brooke’s Icecream are also to be recommended. The views are magnificent and the walker is taken to many interesting places. It is essential to have the route downloaded on your phone which is easily done.
Thanks for the comment Hilary. I hope you’ll visit again to offer your thoughts about specific sections.
Great pics and lots of interest, as usual. I guess that writing the blog about a very familiar local area refreshes your appreciation of it.
I’m interested in the signature pics incorporating your shadow and large path, road and track foregrounds. In the past these would have been included in the chapter on what to avoid. Rule breaking becomes style?
The stone stiles are great- is there any way of knowing how long ago they were made? I recently climbed over a wall in Pembrokeshire where three slab steps were set into either side of the drystone wall.
Always something to catch one’s interest!
Rob
Thanks Rob! Yes, it feels very different when I’m writing about an areas I know intimately. So it will get more distant the further from home I venture. I don’t remember laying down rules about picture taking! But I do like the occasional shadow of moi. No idea about the age of the stiles. I guess an archaeologist might shed light if they dug around them. I guyess you’ve got to have suitable stone, too. Cheers.
The bus floor appears to be carpeted. By the time you got on, your boots must have been very muddy. Did you create a mess?
Its funny you should say that, James. It wasn’t carpeted but on the next walk I caught the same bus back from Monmouth and the driver had just washed the floor and the only other passenger had fun telling me off (in a friendly banter) for dirtying the floor. Which I didn’t. And I don’t think I did this time as the last half mile was on the road and the mud would have come off. xx Charles
Took advantage of a Free Day Yesterday to Walk my faithful four legged companion Ed the Jack Russell from the Nine Wells Wood Car Park back to the Fountain Inn, having downloaded the Route onto my Phone before hand as suggested. Found the Route easier to follow than expected having used your photos as a constant reference. The Stiles in the one area below Kits Wood were as bad as on your visit which made me wonder if the land owner had any responsibilty whatever to maintain them. I Think a lot of Farmers do but judging by the General Condition of The Gates and Fencing in that area no so in this case. We also visited Cleddon Falls which as you say could easily be included in the walk as there is a Footpath that follows the Drive up past the Front of Cleddon Hall giving a much better view of the House.