Date walked: May 14th 2014
Distance: about 14 miles
OS map required: Explorer 253- lleyn Peninsula West
I had two guides that I referred to: The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path by John Cantrell and published by Cicerone (2010) and Llyn Peninsula – The Official Guide- by Carl Rogers and Tony Bowerman, published by Northern Eye Books (2014).
The above guides assume that you are walking north to south. Since I am doing the opposite the detailed directions are of very little benefit but all contain various and differing practical information and historic background and I will refer to them as I feel so moved.
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For this and the next post I was based in Criccieth, staying at 29 Castle Bakery booked through Menai Holiday Cottages (which is directly opposite the castle and is on the route of the Wales Coast Path). I woke early and after a quick breakfast woke Anne to say goodbye and drove to Pwllheli, left the car there and then took a bus on to Abersoch. It was only just past 9 when the bus dropped me in the village.
The official route runs through a golf course where a few guys were already driving off.
One always feels a bit vulnerable to receiving a golf ball in the head on a golf course
At the far end of the course I backtracked for a 100 yards for a glimpse of the the beach at Borth Fawr before taking a little lane around the edge of the hamlet of Machroes.
No morning dippers
The residents of Machroes are very considerate in making it clear where the path does not go.
I wish to make it clear that I did not add the additional advice
After passing several more similar signs at the entrance to properties off this very rough track, a newish looking path heads for the coast. This section around the headland has been added since my map was produced, which shows no right of way here.
I was intrigued by a little circular stone building which gave me no clues as to its origins.
Any ideas?
It was a beautiful morning and the wide grass path was lined with masses of bluebells.
I think the white ones are a natural variation
Out to sea, a motorboat with some fishermen rushed though the channel between the mainland and St Tudwal’s Island West. The St David’s Press guide says that the islands were bought by Clough Williams-Ellis to protect them from development so presumably his family has sold them (see caption below).
Wikipedia say the island is owned by Bear Grylls who has converted it into a holiday home.
This felt like one of the more remote parts of the path; just open fields and the song of skylarks.
A very peaceful spot
Then, streaking along the sea near the shore was my first sighting of dolphins in over 600 miles of walking this coast. I was ridiculously pleased and stood and watched as the pair swam by.
I would say I was transfixed but that would be an awful cliché, so I won’t.
Fully zoomed and further cropped; I presume it isn’t a shark
After a mile and a half of this very pleasing section the path rounds the point called Trwyn yr Wylfa to give a view ahead to the beach at Porth Ceiriad.
One needs a few caravans on the horizon or it would be just too perfect.
On a calm day like today it is difficult to imagine that this perfect little beach offers (according to the Official guide) some of the best surfing in North Wales. The footpath keeps to a grassy track set back from the cliffs.
Perfect little beach but there are no facilities
About half way along the cove the official route currently diverts one inland but I found two Gwynedd Council chaps clearly working on a route that will keep to the cliff tops.
Well I had to ask
Being the stroppy bugger that I am I carried on towards them but finding myself the wrong side of their fence I climbed over it to speak to them. This, understandably, annoyed them rather a lot and I got a lecture about how I was doing exactly what the farmers complained about and about how this was private land until the footpath was officially opened and the Section 25 agreement signed. If I deserve any credit I did apologise and made my way back to where I was supposed to go.
Now that nice man at Gwynedd council that I keep writing to will definitely think I’m a bad’un
At the time of writing this (7th June 2104) this new section has still not been opened but since this isn’t being published until late July or early August you might want to re-check the latest map at the Wales Coast Path website).
Tail between my legs, I trudged up the hill and passed the little camping and caravan site at Nant – y -big reaching a little lane heading back towards the coast. The Bethlehem chapel by the roadside had seen better days and no doubt is destined to make someone a nice home one day.
For the record I would have nothing against such a conversion
After half a mile on this lane the path takes a wide track that leads to the National Trust farm, Muriau.
The farm buildings were not very interesting
After the farm, the path crosses the fields and reaches the coast once more.
Looking back towards Porth Ceiriad- you’d worked that out hadn’t you?
Another super section followed of bluebell covered hillside….
Nice eh?
……and near sheer cliffs.
Look away now, John
The path was wide and firm and allowed my attention to be given to the views out to the far side of Hell’s Mouth (aka Porth Neigwl if you prefer) and I began to play a game with myself of whether I could spot Plas-yn-Rhiw, which I know looks out onto the bay.
Sheep and blue seas. What could be nicer? (Answer: ice cream)
And then the first view of the two mile beach of Hells Mouth commanded my attention and the hills behind.
I think I may have over-done the sky
There is a trig point (just 383 feet) near Pen- y-Mynydd and I used it’s flat top for a selfie.
I know what you’re thinking; I should do this more often
In the ideal world the path would stick to the cliff tops right the way to the beach but I guess there has been some lack of cooperation from a landowner or a logistical problem but the path veers inland briefly, passing a pond….
Ponds are always a good excuse for a nice reflection shot.
…. and then skirting Nant Farm….
Who are you looking at?
….before dropping back down towards the beach.
I took the solitary caravan in my stride and ascribed the rubbish-strewn fence behind it to to natures westerly winds blowing rubbish off the beach rather than to littering caravan dwellers.
One caravan doesn’t make a summer
The official route keeps to the low cliffs of soft earth, but only briefly, and then heads inland. With a low tide it was a no-brainer to take a beach route instead, although scrambling down to it was a little tricky.
Hell’s Mouth has had a lot of shipwrecks (just saying)
The next mile was beach walking bliss, but with little to report. I passed a corvid with a taste for seaweed……
Seaweed- yum!
…. I was rather pleased to see the rainbow colours in the foam that Peter Watson so consummately captured in his book…
Even turning up the saturation and contrast to maximum I could’t get this to look as lurid at Watson did
…. and I pondered over a large concrete construction at the back of the beach.
Any suggestions?
For most of the time, as usual, I had the place to myself.
One of my best beach pics (after Watson)
One walking group did pass me, making for Abersoch and I waved a cheery hello. It was quite a taxing walk because of the variable firmness of the sand, so that I constantly altered my position relative to the waves.
I do like the occasional Robinson Crusoe shot
Towards the far end of the beach I became more and more struck by the fantastic shapes that were being carved into the muddy cliffs by the weather.
Their vulnerability to erosion was very obvious, chasms being being created by the collapsing earth…..
…. sometimes leaving pinnacles of mud which will no doubt be felled by the next great storm.
Half-buried in the soft sand a rusting boiler (I thought) added a picturesque element into this otherwise pristine beach.
Then the sand gives way to a rocky platform which was difficult negotiate but I could not find the path that my map suggested would take me off the beach.
I wonder why this end is so stony?
I slowly picked my way round the last of the bay. As I did so, an unpleasant smell bacame a gut-wrenching stench before I came across the rotting carcass of a seal.
Apologies if you are squeamish
Ahead on the shore was a sweet little cottage and knowing that this would have a track leading off the beach, I made for that.
I was quite pleased to be on solid ground again
Sure enough, the track climbed back up the hillside, passing several more ruined cottages until it reached the lane which climbs steeply past the entrance to Plas-yn-Rhiw (which I had photographed for the award-winning “Discovering Welsh Gardens“).
It’s a sweet little place- do go sometime
The official path appears to go behind the property but I saw no reason to try and re-find it and the lane was quiet so I huffed and puffed my way up the hill, noting half way a waymark sign that told me that I was then back on the route proper. The reward at the top of the hill was a fine view over a field of oil seed rape to Hell’s Mouth.
Great colour combination by Mrs Nature (and Lightroom)
Rhiw is a quiet place with no shops or facilities. But it does have a bus stop. There was one bus leaving Aberdaron that afternoon for Pwllheli. I was two hours early for it. So I sat in the shade and chatted to passing locals and a group of guys out for day’s walk who were very impressed by my have walked from Chepstow. Well you would be, wouldn’t you?
Morning 🙂 A good read for this very wet and windy morning. Looks a lovely days walk, bluebells, beaches, views and solitude. Splendid ( rotting seal carcasses aside…. Could smell it from here ).
Hiya. Nice to have both my Southerdown fans commenting. Yes, one that you would have enjoyed. But I’ve saved you the effort.
Dead seals, dolphins and a great selfy, what more can one ask.
Ice cream. One can always ask for ice cream. And chocolate. Nice day for dog walking. ????
Hi Charles,
I think the rusty boiler is from the 37 ton wooden coastal steamer “The Aggravator” which sank while carrying a cargo of coal in 1858. (http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/shipwrecks/shipwrecks_II.htm)
The concrete structure is possibly from the landward end of the jetty and ropeway that served the Benallt Manganese mine.
Another very readable and enjoyable blog post, thanks Charles!
cheers, Iain
Thanks Iain. And well done for finding that boiler link. And the jetty sounds plausible. Was wondering about WWII left over. Can I appoint you my post-industrial historic consultant? Lots more to come.
1898..sorry!
Must pay better attention to punctuation (don’t go and correct it all now or people will wonder what I’m on about..) but otherwise my ideal walk. (To read about in bed…)
Doh! (Thanks). At least it wasn’t spelling.
Loved this longer-than-usual post with all the pics. No problem with the cliff as you were looking across it and not down it.
It’s rumoured that the circular stone structure is a planter, built by locals who had learned of a grumpy old git walking the coast, moaning about caravan gardens, window boxes and the like and they thought this might cheer him up a bit.
I’m intrigued by the daily difference in your treatment of Anne. Day 1 has a nice mention that she came to Criccieth with you, Day 2 you presumably spent together. Day 3 she gets breakfast in bed before you leave. But she gets totally ignored on day 4 and on day 5 you merely interrupt her dreams and leave. Can’t wait to see how she fares on day 5.
Thanks John. It’s getting a bit out of handing the Lleyn. I had to split the day from Morfa Nefyn because there was so much going on! Love the idea of tower being put up for my benefit. Hope I have some North Wales readers that will entertain me when I am alongside the A55. You’ll just have to stay in suspense about day 5 #leave em wanting more
Just what we all needed on this tail end of Bertha day, a dose of blue skies and blue bells. I’m rather tired of seeing Bertha tracking across the Atlantic; have you noticed that weather forecasts are doing less forecasting these days and more and more reviews of what we’ve already had?
Good to see the dolphins; two seals watched us as we walked along the seafront at Amroth. We expected these to be the first of many as we walked round Pembrokeshire, but we haven’t seen one since (breeding season reasons I expect).
I suppose one should condemn all graffiti ( Old Lifeboat House), but sometimes it seems deserved and you have to smile. Still raining- come on Bertha
Congratulations! That’s the 1200th comment I have had on my blog!Bertha. Can’t get enough of her. Am heading to Yorkshire today just so that I can keep abreast of her (he he). I saw LOTS of seals when we were in Pembrokeshire, so there. And I love graffiti; makes my day when I see something out of the ordinary. (Am I getting inured from the beauty of the coast?)
Can’t imagine she’ll like you referring to her as Bertha…. All blustery and wind….
She understands me. She peed on me on and off all morning.
A good read Charles. Although my propensity to go for long walks is more in keeping with Anne’s preferences, I find myself thinking it would be worth following your footsteps especially on the coastline parts.[ I find the huffing and puffing up hills increasingly exhausting.]
As far as I can tell, the concrete structure is indeed a WD ‘leftover’. RAF Hells Mouth was a gunnery training station and the concrete ‘butts’ are pockmarked with bullet holes on the landward side.
Since the storms some sections of the target supply rail network has started to show again, just a few sleepers and lengths of track but interesting all the same.
Nice to read about your walk, its all very local to me!
Many thanks Paul. I think that’s conclusive. Would welcome your local knowledge about any other future or past questions.
Yes, my father was stationed there in the war – doing manoeuvres and running PE training.
Really. That’s interesting- and makes it clear now. Thanks.
You missed a trick with the selfie, along the lines ‘And next we have Charles,who, for this walk, is wearing…’,
Blimey, you’ll be writing the post for me next!
We believe the concrete construction near Hells Mouth is part of a WW2 RAF training area
Thanks Sue!
Are you quite sure that it wasn’t your advice scratched on that notice? It seems like a sentiment you would share having had the experience of walking and talking with you! Very uplifting photos – apart from the rotting seal . Hope the Dales are dry.
Definitley not my hand writing!(though I might share the sentiment). The Dales dry? Haha. Not exactly. Several soakings to report.
Porth Ceiriad is a very special place for my partner’s family. His Mum and Dad went as kids with their families and so when they met you can imagine their delight at sharing memories of such a special, if pretty obscure beach. They have now been visiting for over seventy years – and their children take their own children. And so it goes. I’ve been too, camping in the site above the beach and it was where I first saw wild dolphins. They are obviously two a penny at Porth Ceiriad . D
That’s a really nice comment David. Its great to hear how sometimes the blog connects people to their own histories. Thanks for sharing that.
We love the Llyn Peninsula and your photography and description has just brought this walk to life. We have done a number of long distance walks and talked about doing the full Llyn coastal path but so far never got round to it.
Hi Charles ref concrete structures on Hell’s Mouth have you seen this web site
http://www.thegilbys.org.uk/john/raf-hells-mouth-porth-neigwl/
Dear Ian, No I hadn’t seen this site, which is great. Thanks for sharing it. Do drop by again!
An enjoyable and informative internet walk. I was about to correct the date of the Aggravator Boiler, but then see that Iain has corrected it himself. The photo of the round structure looks to me like a fire beacon, there is probably another a mile away which would be a clearing transit for Sarn Badrig Causeway. If it is a solitary one it may have been lit to help vessels come inside the Causeway. There is another one of these near Monk Haven, St Ishmaels to guide vessels into Milford Haven, probably dated to about 1640. Have a look if there are remnants of ash or fuel inside or beside the structure. I would guess a lighthouse, it is obviously not a limekiln, but maybe a sheep fold/ drovers hut .
Hi Tom. Apologies for the delay in my reply. What an interesting email address you have. Shipwrecks. Philippines. The mind boggles. Anyway your thoughts are much appreciated. Though I can’t see me going back any time soon for further investigations but future readers of the post will have food for thought.