Possibly the least inspiring walk that I have completed over the whole of the Wales Coast Path – well something has to be at the bottom of the pile.
Date walked: 26th June 2014
Distance walked : 12 miles
Map required: OS Explorer OL 17 Snowdon
I had two guide books to refer to for this walk:
Llyn Peninsula – The Official Guide- by Carl Rogers and Tony Bowerman, published by Northern Eye Books (2014). Why the walk is in this book I don’t know since it is generally accepted that the Lleyn starts/finishes at Caernarfon.
The Wales Coast Path- a practical Guide for walkers by Chris Goddard and Katherine Evans and published by St David’s Press (2014). I have reviewed this book elsewhere on the blog.
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I had stayed last night at the very comfortable and very friendly Victoria House Bed and Breakfast (free nibbles and a complimentary glass of wine available in the guests sitting room). Breakfast was good, though sadly let down by a croissant that had the texture of a sponge.
The forecast was for rain. Well, I had had four good days so I wasn’t too put out. I had planned to stay in Bangor and then get buses back the next day to my car at Morfa Nefyn but Anne suggested that I get a taxi from Bangor to the car and drive home that night. This seemed a great idea so I made a fairly early start and was on the street by nine.
The path passes through the boat-filled Victoria Dock which, though pleasant enough in a boaty kind of way, lacked, charm.
It is just a bit, well, functional
My attention was grabbed by a pavement square celebrating, I presume , Poland.
What’s this saying then?
After passing some flats, the path piggybacks on a tarmac cycle way that runs parallel, but a hundred yards or so from the A487. One bicycle passed me on this unexciting two-mile stretch.
At least it was leafy, even if I could hear the rumble of the main road
The highlight was spying a seagull on the roof of a disused factory.
It was either this or a pic of dense bramble
Just past the factory I had ventured into the Griffiths Crossing Trading Estate and took a look at a yard dedicated to corrugated iron constructions.
This isn’t mentioned in the official guide
After crossing a roundabout (off which,out of sight, is the National Watersports Centre) another mile of road walking followed.
OK, so this isn’t the most inspiring pic but at least you didn’t have to walk it
Then it was back on the cycleway.
Well, it wasn’t raining yet.
The village of Y Felinheli was a welcome change of scene and had lots of interest.
A marina…..
Love these boat wheelbarrows
….the offices of the Youth Justice Service…..
Almost a selfie: no youth to be seen
….and, of course, Yvonne’s beach garden.
I was surprised that Yvonne hadn’t spread sand on the ground.
The dock was followed by Port Dinowic – which is confusing as Wikipedia (above) says that this is the English name for Y Felinheli (the harbour was once the point of exit for slate from the Dinowic quarries near Llanberis)….
This is a nice little place if you are ever passing
… where several of the locals had embraced the seaside theme in their houses.
Maybe “embrace ” is too strong a word
Then it was back on a road for a bit, passing the large but failed Halfway House.
What now for the Halfway House?
I think it began to rain about here. Waterproofs on. Out with the earphones and a dose of Lily Allen’s “It’s not me , its you”.
After half a mile by the A487 I was supposed to take a left at the complicated roundabout and walk through the Menai Business Park passing Yaynol Hall. But I missed the sign and probably the best bit of the day (it would have also taken me through Treborth Botanic Gardens (which are not that exciting but I did photograph some of their orchids once).
(The fact that my map did not show this route and neither does the Goddard/Evans Guide is no excuse; the Official Guide has got it right and I was carrying a copy. My bad)
Instead I trudged another mile along the A487.
I didn’t realise until I was writing this up that I was not supposed to be here.
I rejoined the official coast path when I reached the Antelope pub at the roundabout just before the Menai Suspension Bridge.
Massed white valerian: nice.
What that meant was that after a brief view of the bridge I had another mile by the road.
I am going to have to walk over the bridge sometime
The path then heads back to the coast and passes through the Nant Porth Nature Reserve; in my view a pretty ordinary wood with frustratingly few views out to the Menai Strait. In the opinion of the official Guide, it is ” a lovely ancient mixed woodland” with an “undulating ” path (meaning it had lots and lots of irritating steps up and down up and down.)
This is a rubbish picture;perhaps I was feeling a bit tired and crabby
I was glad to see the back of that wood and to have a more open view over the strait.
The Official Guide refers to this as the “white waterside house”. Fair enough.
The path now reached Bangor suburbia and passes a modern stone circle where a couple were soaking up the vibes.
Ritual sacrifices are probably taking place
Back beside a leafy road, the path follows this down to the delightful Garth pier (opened 1896). I had worked out that I had time to get a bus back to Caernarfon which didn’t stop much and would take £20 off the taxi fare so I resolved to walk the pier when I returned (which might be some time as I have to do the circuit of the Anglesey coast next).
A quick dash up the hill past the university got me to the bus stop with ten minutes to spare. Time to phone for a taxi to meet me when my bus got in to Caernarfon.
And it all worked out very well from there. My taxi driver was an agreeable 60-year-old with a heart condition, my car was where I left it at Morfa and my journey home as pleasant as I could wish for. I stopped off at Waitrose at Abergavenny for a pizza, salad and strawberries for the two of us. And flowers for Anne.
Well, your aim is to walk the whole of the Wales Coast Path (except for the bits you miss) so you have to take the rough with the smooth. It’s called “suffering for your art.” I really like that photo of the single red flower in the field with the stonework behind it.
But hey, you have the excitement of Menai Bridge ahead of you. Much more to do there. According to an online guide you can look at the bridge or “Shop in the Famous Hardware Store or in the Butchers, Bakers, Post Office, Fashion, Marine Shop and Waitrose. ” Have fun!
You are quite right. I will press on regardless. Indeed, I already have as you will discover in the near future. As for Menai Bridge, I was already quite well acquainted with the place as I have stayed several times in the very near by Plas Cadnant gardens. It is a very exciting place. Did you know that HRH Kate shopped at that Waitrose regularly!
Well I like the unexpected rusty sheds – especially no. 5.
Funny; when I was reading the blog earlier, I thought to myself “Paul’s going to like that photo”?
Ah ! You know my taste for scruffily abstract shapes.
We artists love a bit of rust.
Love the seaside theme in the window! Great post, worth every inch of your miserable trek. Xxx
Well if you can like my miserable walks I must be doing something right!
Pity poor Charles. A seagull on a roof was your highlight? You’re not selling me this walk, pal. But I sympathise with poor, tedious days that make you wonder why you’re bothering. Had a few of those. Chin up, I’m sure there are better days ahead. Dave
Thanks for the pity. I think you can safely miss following in my footsteps here. The Pier at Bangor gave me something to look forward to. But it picks up to new heights as I start on Anglesey from Holyhead for the next walk.
Oh dear! I hope this is not going to be the same for the whole of the walk along the north coast – we feel a little bit protective of its reputation!
I hope so too! I don’t want to lose you.
Actually not as bad as your preamble suggests… Boring perhaps, but some interesting moments, nonetheless…. After all, a trip past Yvonne’s beach garden is not something you do everyday….
Yes, interesting moments, perhaps but thats not a lot in the best part of a day’s walk. I wonder if Yvonne will ever get to hear about her publicity?
I agree, this walk is probably the least inspiring walk we’ve done too & we even managed to miss the path that takes you down to the dock so walked more of the road route! Never mind, it is more scenic from Bangor onwards. Michelle
Well I am glad that it improves after Bangor! I think Ian (see below) was getting worried. But first I’ve got the East Anglesey coast to do.
Only seems right to say that the path is now well signposted for the whole journey. The route is different from Felinheli to Bangor from your description and almost all the route is off road now. Much more enjoyable now than perhaps when you did it in 2014
Cheers
Paul
Thanks very much for the update.