Date walked: May 15th 2014

Distance: about 6 miles

OS map required: Explorer 253- lleyn Peninsula West

I had three guides that I referred to: The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path by John Cantrell ,published by Cicerone (2010) and Llyn Peninsula – The Official Guide- by Carl Rogers and Tony Bowerman, published by Northern Eye Books (2014), and A guide to the whole path published by St David’s Press: The Wales Coast Path- a practical Guide for walkers (2014).

All of the above guides assume that you are walking north to south. Since I am doing the opposite the detailed directions are of limited benefit but all contain various and differing practical information and historic background and I will refer to them as I feel so moved.

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This was my last of 5 days walking on the south coast of the Lleyn. I was based in Criccieth, staying at 29 Castle Bakery booked through Menai Holiday Cottages (which is directly opposite the castle and is on the route of the Wales Coast Path). I’d left myself a short walk, allowing me to make a leisurely start and then driving to Rhiw with the plan to get the one bus service out of Aberdaron to Rhiw that afternoon (the 17B).

The path leaves the road through Rhiw and descends towards the sea, passing one or two modest houses and several ruined cottages.

If this was in Monmouthshire it would have permission to “convert” into a house

It was a very misty morning, giving these little homes a greater sense of being hidden away in this remote corner of the Lleyn.

Pen-yr-Ogof: this tiny little place is clearly still in use

The wide track is a good few hundred yards from the coast, so no sounds of the sea penetrated the murk.

A misty moisty morning

After passing a sewage works, a sign announced the National Trust property of Penarfynydd.

Question: what are these signs for?

I supposed that it was their cattle that were grazing in the field I passed as I followed a track towards the sea.

See, several are already interested in me

My presence seemed to get the herd very excited and they raced down the hill towards me calling out loudly (as sheep do sometimes from my experience; obviously associating man at this stage in their lives with something nice).

Maybe I just have a natural attractiveness to cattle?

It seems that I should have taken a turn up the hill at the farm to join a small road but I didn’t see the path and I could see the direction that the coast was taking and it wasn’t hard making my way over the grazed grass of Mynydd Penarfynydd (a favoured stomping ground of the poet RS Thomas.)

And besides, I wasn’t doing any harm

My gain for going off-route was a view of Porth Llawenan….

Ok so its not the most remarkable beach

…. and a chance to explore  the remains of the Nant mine, which produced the largest amount of manganese in the country in the early C20th.

Those are nicely made walls

I followed the line of the tramway down the hillside, spotting a rail still in situ.

The ore was exported by sea, the gap in the cliffs indicating the route down to the shore where a jetty would have been located.

The OS map actually shows a track in the cliff face.

A pile of what I took to be spoil on the cliff top looked fresh somehow, which seems unlikely, making me wonder if the material is naturally poisonous  to vegetation.

I could be way off in this speculation

I found a Wales Coast Path finger-post at the bottom of the little valley called Nant y Gadwen which was encouraging.

I didn’t pass too many of these today

But almost immediately what I was seeing on the ground, with several new bridges did not seem to accord with the route shown on my map (or indeed my reading of the latest map on the official website). This new route kept closer to the cliff edge which certainly seemed preferable.

Thanks to Gwyedd County Council for this lovely new bridge

Ahead, even in the mist was a good view to Maen Gwenonwy which becomes an island at high tide.

Misty view of Maen Gwenonwy

I continued on this brand new path until opposite Maen Gwenonwy.

Still a bit misty

I must have missed the sign sending me back towards  the road by negligence or intention on my part because I found myself passing through several bluebell-filled fields (and climbing over fences) with no sign of a path at all.

Very nice field but Not The Wales Coast path

My map showed no right of way but then I came across a locked up gate that had clearly once been for a path …

This is much closer to the coast and it is not obvious why the official route does not take this route.

…..and then another, which was open and I decided that right of way or not I would follow its course.

It’s not as steep as it looks and the view is great

This more cliff-top route seemed much more preferable  than the official alternative of heading away from the coast and onto a road and was  more satisfying to my inner delinquent; I was clearly following a path, even if it has been disestablished.

The route for the path is clear

I let the sheep lead the way.

If its good enough for sheep its good enough for me

I rounded Trwyn y Penrhyn, giving me my first view of the long beach at Aberdaron.

I was feeling pretty pleased with myself at this point

I was  still finding bridges and gates……….

Nothing wrong with this bridge

….until  they stopped and I found myself in a field with no exit in the direction I needed to go in. Ahead  and by the coast was a sparsely populated caravan and camping site. I did what you would expect me to do and climbed over a few fences until I reached a gully that was heading down to the beach.  This was no footpath either but a couple from the caravan site thought it was doable so I followed behind, making encouraging noises.

She told me that she was gazelle like when she was young

And then there I was, tra la,  on another mile-long deserted beach.

It’s surprising that there are not more big rocks on beaches when you think about it.

The new sea wall was a bit brash (it’ll weather) and the hillside drainage system novel.

I’ve never seen this chevron style drainage before

Out to sea, a view of Yns Gwylan fawr and Yns Gwylan -bach.

The big one is on the left

The final approach to the village was quite special, the graveyard of the quiet church of St Hywyn offering its occupants, a great sea view.

Aberdaron is a charming little place, with a couple of hotel/pubs, a few cafes, one or two general  shops and a chippy. I stayed in The Ship about 6 years ago when I was photographing nearby Plas -yn Rhiw for Discovering Welsh Gardens but I had forgotten just how small it is.

I hope to have had tea here by the time you read this

Since I was there the National Trust have built a new visitor centre, but I decided to save that for my next visit. After a brief mooch around I returned to the beach, getting an excellent and far too cheap baguette from the beach side cafe (they have wi-fi and the pretty woman serving told me that its range is such that passing boats have been known to anchor off shore to pick up emails).

The mist had suddenly got quite thick. On the beach a young mum wandered about trying to comfort her wailing babe in arms.

One family were introducing their young son to the mysteries of sand.

Dad: “I’m not angry but do you think you buried your sister here?” Mum: “I think I can hear something “

A chap on the next bench was enjoying a doze.

It all felt, very….. relaxed. I had a quick look around the church, its interior light and simple and homely.

The poet RS Thomas was the vicar here between 1967 and 1978

And then after another look in the graveyard it was time to wait for the bus.

The bus was reassuringly prompt and 10 minutes later deposited me back in Rhiw. I offered an apology to the lady whose house I had parked outside but she wasn’t bothered and we had a friendly little chat. The view over Hells Mouth that yesterday was so clear was today under a wonderful blanket of cloud.