Our itinerary and all our accommodation was arranged by Sherpa Walking Holidays.
Ear plugs and a sleeping pill ensured a good nights sleep and protected me from Bob’s snoring. The breakfast was disappointing. No pastries and the bread wasn’t fresh and the small plate of cheese available was clearly last nights leftovers.
But it was a beautiful morning and we agreed that being on the road at 8 was A Good Thing.
We stopped at Saint Alban Sur Limagnole for a cup of coffee on the steps above the Romanesque church and to buy supplies for lunch.
It was a charming building, outside and in.
I’m not sure of the function of the little glass box above the altar.
As yesterday the path took us through pine woods, climbing up short stretches on granite bedrock, the roots of the trees acting as steps.
But the climbs were easy and most of the time we were walking on wide flat gritty surfaces which meant we could enjoy the views rather than keep our eyes on the ground.
We were mostly at around 3500 feet and the views were far more impressive than I can do justice to here.
We lunched early just below Les Estrets and after crossing the busy N106. Our first proper picnic, though, as I said to Bob, my Uncle Nigel (Buxton) , who wrote Walking in Wine Country, would have considered this a poor lunch indeed as no wine was consumed.
From here we climbed onto the plateau again, past the hamlet of Bigose.
We climbed again gently up a little valley.
Throughout the day we had brief
encounters with fellow walkers , but not so frequently as to disturb the peacefulness of the walk. But we only passed this one man and his donkey coming in the opposite direction. He was on his way home from Santiago Di Compostella.
As we climbed towards the highest point of the days walk some of the surrounding fields had beautiful fine grasses that had turned an autumnal gold.
And on either side of the path, the ground was littered with pine cones and the hedgerows full of the hips of wild roses.
By the time we began to drop down to Aumont we were tiring and slowing down so this marker in the square of the Beast of Gevauden was a welcome sight as it was just a few yards from out hotel.
I am 4 nil up in our cribbage tournament for the taxi from Conques to Rodez.
At the restaurant I had a salad paysanne, saucisson aux chouz and the cheeseboard. We drank