Post image for Day 6: The Way of St James from Nasbinals to Chely D’Aubrac (10.6 miles)

Day 6: The Way of St James from Nasbinals to Chely D’Aubrac (10.6 miles)

September 23, 2012 · 5 comments

 

If I confess that our drinks bill this morning was 63 euros and that we had had a couple of beers at another bar in this pretty village (where I increased my lead to 5 nil in the Conques to Rodez taxi fare Cribbage tournament), you’ll understand why we had a late start today. We were grateful, too, that we only had 10 miles to do, as we needed to see how Bob’s toe would hold up.

Memorial to Patrick Coudert Pelerin near Nasbinals on The Way of St James, photographed by Charles Hawes. Route St Jacques, GR65

We climbed slowly out of the village, the woodland being mostly of beech, now, passing signs for a ski station. This area is popular for cross-country skiing.

Soon the woodland gave way to open meadows and golden coloured grassland.

Please can someone identify this tall plant. It’s stems stood about 2 feet high and I kept spotting it all day. It’s leaves are collapsing. A bulb or tuber of some sort?

Phlomis plants on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

Here is just a single specimen. (thanks to @MarianBoswell who has suggested Phlomis)

Phlomis on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

As we climbed so the views improved.

View on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

These beautiful cattle are incredibly docile and do a lot of sitting around rather than eating.

Aubrac cattle on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

We dropped down through this beech wood.

Beech wood on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

And then realised that we were off route slightly so climbed back up to re-join continuously rising path.

Extensive views with Aubrac cattle in the fields on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

At the path sides, were plenty of Shaggy Parasol mushrooms, but I suspect the locals are more interested in collecting the Boletus edulis (cep).

Field with phlomis plants on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

We were at over 4000 feet at this point and nearing the highest point we would reach in our 10 day trek. Fabulous views.

Near the highest point of on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

A little wooden hut sits at about 4,400 feet and offers refuge for those caught out by the weather. It’s the only possible shelter for miles.

We then made the slow descent to the attractive and village of Aubrac, passing a rather unattractive and massive “Sports Hotel”.

Sports Hotel near Aubrac on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

Quite what sport takes place here was not obvious.

Madonnas and crosses abound by the path side of this pilgrim route.

Staue of madonna and child near Aubrac on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

We had our picnic lunch at Aubrac on benches by the visitor centre overlooking this view. (the foreground is the villages Botanic Garden. Don’t ask)

View over the Botanic garden at Aubrac on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

Before leaving I popped into the C13th church, far more impressive from the outside than inside.

Icons in the church at Aubrac on The Way of St James between Nasbinals and Chely d'Aubrac on The Way of St James photographed by Charles Hawes. Route st Jacques. GR65

From Aubrac we descended on often stony paths through the little hamlet of Belvezet stuffed full of charming ruins.

Ruin of the edge of Chely D'Aubrac on The way of St James, France, photographed by Charles Hawes. Route St jacques. GR65

As we approached St Chely – d’Aubrac the path sits on the edge of a steep wooded valley. It was a stony and uneven descent and I was worried for Bob’s toe. You’ll be glad to know I am not going to post a photo update of the offending item.

Our itinerary and all our accommodation was arranged by Sherpa Walking Holidays.

{ 5 comments… read them below or add one }

Clare Palmer September 23, 2012 at 6:40 pm

A late arrival on your blog – just back from a week in Yorkshire writing retreat. Much enjoy the way you do this, with photos and text enhancing each other. Hope Bob’s toe is feeling better! Clare x

Reply

Charles September 23, 2012 at 7:40 pm

Hello Clare! Stay with me. 4 more days to go. Cx

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Paul Steer September 23, 2012 at 8:58 pm

Great pictures again, the high moorland looks similar to the hills around us here in the southern end of the Brecon Beacons National Park. The wine looks good. I have put up a scallop shell on the wall of my studio in honour of your walk…. 4 more days ! Hope the weather holds.

Reply

Charles September 23, 2012 at 9:02 pm

What a nice thought, thank you Paul. I will light you a candle at my next opportunity. You really might like to do this one day.

Reply

Sacha September 24, 2012 at 10:33 am

Looks & sounds gorgeous. But be careful re the candle. Every time I light one in a church someone gets pregnant! Wonderful pics of wonderful views but my heart goes out to that little ruined cottage.

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Copyright Charles Hawes (2012)