A very pleasant 15 miles from Hay-on-Wye to Kington on Offa’s Dyke on a warm August day. No sign of the Dyke though.

Date  walked: 9th August 2018

Map used: OS Explorer 201- Knighton and Presteigne

Distance: about 15 miles

Guide book used: Offa’s Dyke Path by Mike Dunn (Cicerone, 2016)

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Its been nearly 9 months since Paul and I did a couple of days on the path with a night en route at Kington. It’s going to be a challenge to remember any of those details that make my write ups so fascinating.  My posting here is now, admittedly, sporadic – all I can say about that is that the time that I would have otherwise spent here at my desk has been spent working in the garden. The garden looks a lot better for my efforts – you should come and see – we open soon. www.veddw.com.  Anyway, off we go.

Parking can be a bit tricky in Hay but fortunately we found a space for Paul’s money-leaching Land Rover just a hundred yards from our start near the River Wye. But first we had deposited my car in the car park of the Offa’s Dyke visitor centre in Knighton, which was where we were to finish the following day.

Walking by the B4351, we crossed the Wye by the road bridge and headed north along the river bank, confidently directed by one of the many signs that mark the route of this National Trail.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

The river is wide and shallow here and popular with canoeists, who would probably be able to wade ashore should they capsize.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

I think I had told Paul that we were doing about 12 miles so he was a bit crestfallen when the first finger-post we passed declared us to have  14 3/4 miles to go; that’s about my limit of what I am up for these days.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

And that’s without deviations

Still, it was a pleasant day and we didn’t have any big hills to climb (not strictly true but I needed to keep Paul on-side), so I felt sure that we would be OK – as long as we didn’t get lost.  Those nice people at Harper Collins had given me the latest i-Spy books of Wild Flowers and of Trees, so I thought we could have a competition as to who could get the most points on the walk. Paul chose Trees and immediately began clocking up the points as we followed the river. Oak, tick. Ash, tick, Beech, tick.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

After a mile or so we left the river bank to cross a field that had recently had its crop of wheat cut and its straw baled.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

The path approached the busy A438 near the hamlet of Bronydd, ….

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

….follows by the road for a few hundred noisy metres and then heads north-west through a little wood in Bettws Dingle.

Paul  spotted some conifer, while I picked up just 5 points for Roseby Willowherb…

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Rosebay willowherb on left

… and, surprisingly, 10 points for a bramble.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

No extra points for the lovely blue butterfly.

Joining a minor road, the path followed this for a couple of miles, climbing gently to give us a view back to the eastern edge of the Brecon Beacons.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

At the top of Red Lane we left the road and crossed a field with some fine old pollarded Oaks.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

A deeply rutted track known as Red Lane (an old Drove Road according to our Guide) ….

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

…..led us by a stock fence where too-warm sheep sheltered from the increasingly hot sunshine.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Monbiot’s favourite animal

We had our first (and only) encounter with fellow walkers here (if a brief “hello” counts as an encounter).

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Shorts may not have been advisable – this could well have been tick habitat

The path climbed the edge of Little Mountain (Little Hill would be more accurate) which gave us views of the distant Malvern Hills…..

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

…. before presenting us with a view ahead of the village of Newchurch.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Though lacking any shop, Newchurch had some fine old houses….

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

… and our Guide had advised us that tea and biscuits might be had on a self-serve basis in St Mary’s church.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Biscuits were there none, but  we made ourselves a drink in its catering corner….

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

… enjoyed the simplicity of its cool interior…..

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

…. and perused the messages of appreciation left by previous passers-by.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

OK, which one of you had the last of the bikkis?

From Newchurch we had  a proper little climb up Disgwylfa Hill, which took us, panting slightly, to a giddy 1256 feet.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

It was becoming a remarkably dry summer and whilst the grass was browning-off, the bracken was retaining its colour.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Without losing much altitude, the next couple of miles was a warm and easy amble northwards across open countryside towards Gladestry.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Gladestry, according to our Guide, has several interesting buildings. Unfortunately the one of most interest to us – The Royal Oak- was closed, so in protest we gave scant attention to the others. (according to the Guide and on their website they have rooms )

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

From Gladestry we had  quite a steep climb up the Western edge of Hergest Ridge. Well, it wasn’t that steep but Paul had a moan about it anyway.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

The flora continued to be fairly unremarkable swathes of bracken; the sheep here glad that they had not long been shorn.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

This once would have been forest but now only the occasional isolated red-berried sorbus (10 points to Paul) broke the monotony of the  vegetation.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

It was about a two mile climb to the highest point on the path of 1368 feet. A modest altitude but the views were fab over to the highest peaks of the Brecon Beacons (been there and climbed them several times).

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Several families of wild horses paid us little heed.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Near our summit was a small group of Monkey Puzzle trees.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

The puzzle being why anyone would plant such an incongruous species in such a place.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Araucaria araucana

Our Guide offered no clue but added to our knowledge by explaining that near this point there had been a horse racing track in the mid C19th , and that that the musician Mike Oldfield had once lived nearby, inspiring his second album “Hergest Ridge”.

Our climbing complete for the day, it was a gently two mile descent from here into Kington. Paul’s spirits lifted.

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Near the bottom of the hill is Hergest Croft Gardens – known for its collection of trees. Paul picked up extra points and won the days competition hands down (where does that expression come from?)

Offa's Dyke Path National Trail between Hay-on-Wye and Kington; image by Charles Hawes

Kington is one of those slightly shabby towns that feels like it has had the stuffing knocked out of it. We stayed in the Oxford Arms. We were’t impressed by the grubby carpet in the deserted bar and one look at the dining room was enough to persuade us that we would eat elsewhere. We had a quick pint (much needed for our health’s sake) before occupying our not unpleasant but not en-suite rooms.

Showered and  somewhat weary of limb we walked back up the main street, rejecting the Wine Vaults in favour of the rather classy looking Swan Inn.

Pic taken as we set out the next day

This was a great place and was already busy. A darts night was underway and they had special offers on a wide range gins and tonics. I have never taken a liking to gin, but had formed a taste for tonic since discovering that it is said to be good for warding off cramp. Add a raspberry flavoured gin and it made for a very refreshing drink. We had another (or was it two). I’ve no idea what we ate but it was very nice. So a good finish to a very nice days walk.  And I didn’t get cramp.

 

 

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