A very hard and very slow hike over Rhinog Fach, and then a bail out.

Date walked: 24th August 2019

Distance: about 7 miles

Maps used:  OS Explorer OL 18- Harlech, Porthmadog and Y Bala

Guide used: Cambrian Way by A.J.Drake (7th edition, 2016) , though a new guide has recently been published which is much better: Walking the Cambrian Way by George Todd and Richard Tyler (Cicerone Press)

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Apologies for the delay to this post – I have been a bit tied up (tee he) since a recent trip to Russia. Something of that anon.

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We had reached Y Llethr yesterday afternoon- at 2,480 feet the highest point of this section of the Way. I had finished the last post with a sunset, so its only right that I should start with a sunrise.

The sun rising over (and thus obscuring) Cadair Idris.

Neil and I had been in bivvi bags, whilst Paul had opted for his tent. Sleeping in my late uncle Nigel’s bag was a strange and slightly unnerving experience . Not because it had been his (although probably at least 40 years old I was not sure he had ever used it), but because the zip location meant that to keep all the elements out you completely enclose yourself. Perhaps all bivvi bags are like this? I found it  quite claustrophobic and  kept a little hole open so that I wouldn’t suffocate. I was warm enough, though, and woke around 6  having had quite a decent night. I don’t think Paul and Neil did as well.  By 6.40 they had both emerged and were thinking about breakfast.

Paul made himself a brew….

….but I couldn’t face the faff so had a banana and went to retrieve my now only moderately damp boots of the cairn.

It was a beautiful morning and I was packed and off by just after 7. This gave me the first sight of Llyn Hywel, perched below Rhinog Fach and a stunning view of both Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr, with the Snowdonian range beyond.

Knowing that I would be slow, I began the steep descent, picking my way between huge boulders that appeared determined to make life more difficult. I looked back to see Paul and Neil giving me a friendly wave.

The boulders gave way to a quite loose but still steep path of gravel and smaller rocks, the Rhinog peaks beginning to feel a little intimidating.

I kept my eye on Neil and Paul’s progress; always a good idea to keep sight of your companions in such terrain.

Our path bottomed out about 50 feet above the lake and we came across the chap who passed us last night, still prone in his tent and sleeping bag and looking quite relaxed. Two more tents were pitched on the far side of the lake.

I can’t see any tents in this pic, though.

 Over on the right, the much smaller Llyn y Bi.

To start with our climb kept close to the high dry-stone wall that snaked up the side of Rhinog Fach.

Several freshly laundered sheep appeared, no doubt laughing at the slow progress we were making.

And we were slow, as we scrambled up away from the wall now, pausing quite often to survey and then pick a way though and over the boulder-strewn hillside.

For reasons I can’t remember I seemed to take no pics until we reached the rather inadequately small cairn that marked the 2,335 feet peak of Rhinog Fach.

Intrepid, eh?

In distance we had travelled about a mile from our camp- and had taken nearly two hours to do so. That’s how slow we were. But hey, it was only 9am and we had one of the two intended peaks under our belt. Easy Peasy. And the views were fab.

For half-a-mile it was relatively easy walking as we made our way towards our second goal.

And then it all went a bit pants. Between Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr is a deep valley.

Even here we had no sense of how deep the valley was

The descent was about 1,100 feet. The Guide describes this as “steep and tortuous in places”. I didn’t find any other kind of places as I picked my way down using both walking poles to support me. It was, quite simply, exhausting.  As we neared the bottom of the pass called Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, so the climb in front of us became huge and oppressive. And I lost heart.

I felt hugely disappointed in myself but I had a horrid realisation that I did not want to climb up again  with the prospect of repeating such a difficult ascent. I voiced my feelings and we had a chat. Thankfully Neil was also feeling disinclined to go on. Paul would, I am sure, have been up for it if we were but was happy to bail out.

Neil studied the map and found us our plan B. We would take the pass North-East which headed for a wood and then head due West to pick up our intended route at the Roman Steps which come off the North face of Rhinog Fawr. It would be a  longer trek but the important thing was that it got us to where we needed to be for a fraction of the effort. ( a bigger fraction than we thought as it turned out).

It was for the most part a very boggy mile or so before we came across a sign for the Rhinog Nature Reserve. My feet were returned to their squelchy state.

Once we were in the wood the path improved dramatically and we made good progress.

For reasons we couldn’t understand map and paths did not seem to agree on where to make our left turn but the path was clear so we took that.

Straight ahead the now less intimidating Rhinog Fawr.

We came across a family who appeared to be out for a picnic. The children were both under 10. They were certainly not kitted out for a strenuous walk and yet in chatting to them they appeared to be considered climbing the Rhinog. We counselled against this. I think that they got the message although carried on in our direction as we climbed to join the Roman Steps.

Our Guide was clear that these were neither Roman or (for the most part) steps. A pack-horse route, it seems. And firm and flat and dry under foot and a delight compared to the terrain which we had had earlier in the day.

Paul shot off as is his wont.

It was coming up to about one o’ clock  now, so we had taken nearly 6 hours to travel about as many miles. If we had intended to go for a Slow Walk we had definitely succeeded.  I felt very tired and the last mile or so felt like hard work. The “steps” gave way to a pleasantly shaded wood as we approached Cwm Bychan.

A glimpse of the lake lifted my spirits somewhat but I think by now I was dehydrated as well as over-tired and almost past caring.

A pretty stream tumbles into the lake, and despite there being no facilities of any kind, the whole place was packed with families camping and playing in the warm sun.

Neils beaten up old car was a hugely welcome sight. Better still, he continued to be Caterer In Chief and his boot was packed with bottles of water and some of those ghastly to taste  but invigorating fizzy drinks that are packed with caffeine. I flopped down by the car and guzzled, feeling a bit deflated. Had the Rhinogs defeated me? I think Neil has a Plan C.

Most of these photos can be viewed and use of them purchased at Getty Images. Here is a link.

https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/search/stack/795101863?assettype=image&family=creative&uiloc=view_all_same_series_adp