Date walked: 29th July 2014
Distance: about 15 miles
Map used: OS Explorer No.262: Anglesey West
At the start of these walks on Anglesey I flew from Cardiff to Anglesey Airport near Holyhead on the excellent Citywing service.
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I had a good nights sleep at Ingledene Bed and breakfast in Trearddur Bay. It was novel having my breakfast delivered on a trolley, even if there was no sign of fruit. For once the breakfast room was blessedly quiet – no cheery morning music.
Sadly the weather had broken down and it was drizzling that heavy, wetting drizzle.
At the beach, the wet weather wasn’t putting off the novice sailors.
The coast path out of the village follows the road at first before passing through the Lee Caravan Park. According to the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty website: “Tourism plays a significant part in the rural economy, largely centred on static caravan sites.” You could say that for the whole of the Welsh coast.
Having got through the caravans the AONB ethos is re-asserted.
Yesterday’s coast of low rocky cliffs and coves continued, adding some impressive natural arches.
Man made, but also impressive were the lichen covered and expertly constructed walls.
As my attention returned to the cliffs I was amazed to see, half way down a near-sheer drop, two white goats perched calmly on a narrow ledge, sheltering from the rain.
For once I got out my binoculars for a closer look.
Several more coves…
…and several more beautiful walls….
…….took me to the southern most part of Holy Island.
The rain was easing off by now and out to sea Rhoscolyn Beacon was visible though the misty atmosphere.
Rhoscolyn is said to mean “The Moor” (Rhos) of The Column (colyn), referring to a pillar which the Romans put up to mark the edge of their territories. To the south of the village the path reaches the sheltered cove of Borthwen.
The Old Lifeboat station has been converted to a residence.
From Borthwen the path heads due north; the only crossing from Holy Island to Anglesey’s main island (which appears to be nameless) is two miles away at Four Mile Bridge. Half of this was on the road but the best bit was where the path reaches the edge of the marshy land.
Four-mile bridge’s architecture is not exactly enhanced by the service pipes strapped to its side.
Having crossed Four Mile Bridge the path returns to the marshes and heads south. The high tides deposit all sorts of interesting things.
The path crosses a narrow sea wall holding back a lake at Tyddyn-y-cob; below a heron stood completely still in the shallow water. I tried to gain his attention (don’t ask me why) then he lunged, came up with a flapping spotted flat fish and flew off.
The path continues to follow the marshy high tide line of this shallow stretch of water that separates the islands. It was a particularly quiet and peaceful area; I stopped for a cup of coffee from my flask. A woman with a broad Liverpool accent, not obviously a walker, marched by at a fair lick, asking me if this was the Coast Path.
Just after this I passed a sheep with its head stuck through the stock fence. It seemed a very large head to have got through a relatively small square of wire, but I had seen this before and seen the sheep extract themselves.
This one was struggling. I went towards it and it struggled more. It is normally the case that passers-by can do nothing useful for distressed farm animals; they are people-shy and locating the farmer is usually impossible. So I walked by, saying to myself that it would have to wait for rescue. But I found that I was unhappy with leaving it, so I went back and was about to see what I could do when my proximity sent it into a renewed frenzy of struggling and it managed to pull its head back through the fence and carried on grazing as if nothing had happened.
Somewhere around here the coast loses its AONB status. The reason is quite simple; just over the horizon is the RAF Valley/Anglesey Airport that I flew into yesterday. The clue was in the air.
As I approached the airport perimeter a military plane took off, flying low over my head. It was deafening. Several cars were parked at what was the end of a minor road, their occupants standing around waiting for the next plane.
I asked one young spectator what he had seen:
“A few training jets”
“What type”
I suppose it must be a bit like train spotting if you live near an airport
A little of getting deafened by jets goes a long way so, after a brief linger I carried on down the track that takes the seaward side of the airport.
Crossing a car park at Plas Cymyran the path reaches the mixed sand and pebble mile and half long beach that goes all the way to Rhosneigr.
Across the bay, the hills of the Lleyn peninsula that I walked over in June were clothed in white puffy clouds. As I walked along the beach an adult rushed by who was clearly running away from a bare foot woman in hot pursuit. There was something about the awkward way he ran and then made a shriek that led me to conclude that this man had learning disabilities and that the woman was a carer.
They were moving faster than me. At one point the woman caught up and seemed to hold him briefly but he broke away and carried on towards Rhosneigr. Then they went out of sight and I didn’t see them again. I hoped that Rhosneigr was where he was staying because it was a long way back if it wasn’t.
The weather had improved since the morning but half a mile from the town the beach was still pretty quiet.
But as I neared the town a few more adventurous types were beach combing.
And someone had managed to install a caravan on the beach (and were inside it).
As I got close to the town I could see that there was a wide stream about 6 inches deep between me and the front. The official route would have required a little detour inland for a footbridge but I dashed across and got my feet wet. Which was silly really as it takes a while to dry out wet boots.
I was staying that night at Ambleside Bed and Breakfast which was in the main street in the town. I had booked a single room which was OK if a little cramped but when I realised after unpacking that I was the only guest I asked the very friendly landlady if I could have the en suite double instead, assuring her that I would pay the extra. She was quite Ok about that and I was instantly much happier. Sometimes its the little things in life that matter.
southern most = one word?
Hmm – linger/loiter…love the English language!
How much breakfast were you having that it required a trolley to deliver it??
I refer you to my honourably friend, John.
A trolley load.
xx
John is the pot which is not embarrassed to call the kettle black…
Stop picking Anne 😉
I love the pics of the walls and of the cliff with goats on – the textures and colours come over very well.
Anglesey’s main island does, in fact, have a name. It’s “Anglesey” (or “Ynys Mon”). It, together with the little islands around it such as Holy Island, make up the administrative county of Anglesey, which, of course, is more than just Anglesey and is in the preserved county of Gwynedd, to add to the confusion.
Thanks, as always. So Ynys Mon is the main island, thanks, that clears that up. Though Holy Island is hardly small compared to the main island. How many little islands are there off the two main ones?
In addition to Holy Island there’s Ynys Llanddwyn (which becomes detached when the tide is very high), Cribinau (reachable at low tide and essentially a church and a graveyard), Ynys Dysilio (another church and graveyard island), the Skerries (I suppose these are islets), South Stack, East Mouse, West Mouse and Middle Mouse (more islets), Puffin Island, Salt Island, Ynys Faelog, Ynys Feurig, Ynys Gaint, Ynys Moelfre, Ynys y Big (private and you can’t get off the causeway at the island end unless you’ve been invited) and Ynys Gored Goch.
Howzat? Please give the Kettle my greetings.
Thanks for all your researches! I think I’ve past half of these now. If I start greeting Kettles I’ll get locked up. I could get away with a smile.
I actually rather liked the disorganised caravans; they couldn’t quite get their act together and they are still grumbling among themselves.
And I’m not at all sure about your two goats. They are too clean, too well placed and too well juxtaposed. I think they could well be conceptual art.
An aside; is there anyway of incorporating a map section to show where your walk is, or do you come up against copyright issues?
Humph. I think it comes to something when caravan parks are admired for their disorganised layout. Goats are very clean animals, don’t you know. You are sounding quite bonkers. Don’t talk to me about maps. I’d love to but I have wasted hours trying to get maps into my site without success. When I am retired I might try again.
I like the over fiddled with photo – the parallel lines and the enhanced sky. I think artiness is sinking into your soul.
I suspect that the caravan on Rhosneigr beach is used by the warden of the tern colony on the nearby island/peninsula (Ynys Feirig) I photographed it but the image didn’t appear in the book.
Hi Jeremy
Really! What a grossly insensitive place to plonk a caravan. What were they thinking?
I wonder if they remove it outside the breeding season? One would hope/expect so. Can’t imagine it would endure too many winters.
Hello,
Really nice to read your story. I am the lady you mentioned from Ambleside Bed and Breakfast in Rhosneigr and I was so pleased to see that I made a nice ending to your Coastal Path walk.
Regards, Cathy
Thanks for the comment. I hope that I might have encouraged some others to enjoy your place.